If you are doing it all over again spend the extra coin for forged. You never know when you will want to add more power. And we all have that disease.
I'm not a fan of Eagle cranks let alone cast. I have seen about 8 twisted ones on some 540's with torque. They kept taking out the mains. I know BT has had good luck with his, but I have heard more bad than good with Eagle stroker kits. These were years ago and they may be better now.
My $0.02

Mine are Scat nodular steel and not strokers. I do run eagle forged rods though and have had no issue.

Sorry BT, I like the Scat. I always thought you ran Eagle cranks. I have no problems with their rods.

Reading this thread is making me really paranoid. I just had my starboard engine rebuilt. I had the machine shop build the lower end because I didn't feel qualified to do it. I reassembled the top end. The block was cracked so I got one from a salvage yard and it turned out to have been bored. Shop guys said it was no problem and just ordered larger pistons.

I just hope they knew what they were doing and built this thing right. I've spent then entire summer plus a lot of cash putting it back together. Plus I had to wait two months for them to build it.

Off to flush my oil cooler one more time (no spun bearings or anything, but now I'm concerned about all of it!)

Scat nodular in practice for me have been very good with 2 supercharged, 5500rpm+engines now for a number of years. And they are not babied. You do need to be overly meticulous on bearing clearance though as the machine work is inconsistent journal to journal. I get a lot of $$ into bearings sets of differing sizes before I get one set up right. That should not be.

All boats are lemons. Some just come in the form of lemonade.

Yeah looking into it a forged crank already blalnced works out to be less than $100 more than buying a cast one and having it balanced