puss........

For 40 bucks I still want to play w/one though

Read a really good technical article in one of my boat builder mag's about the use and accuracy of moisture meters a while back.
Their conclusion was not good. (given accuracy of meter and operator)

I still like what the old time surveyor told me 30 yrs ago. " I try to bury a #2 phillips screw driver (in the days of wood boats) in it. If it sticks, walk away. If don't, buy it".

We will be there. Not sure about the boat. My brother called too late and they are sold out. He is on a waiting list. We'll be up there either way we are doing the car Ralley in my buddys 73 TBird

You goin to be there?

Mark

I had a surveyor tel me one time that the core in my boat was wet and bad. . . . . . It was a solid fiberglass hull but he insisted his meter was showing wet lol. I knew it was solid but didn't feel like arguing the point.
I don't use those meters and have very little faith in any of them. The best method is still by sounding with a small tack hammer.

I use a plastic mallet.

Yrs back I bought an old Hyrdostream Vector to play with and gave it the hammer test as they are notorious for rotted balsa core in the bottom due to really poor craftsmanship during the orig. build.
I only found one spot (dull thud) about 1' forward of the transom and about the size of a quarter. Went ahead and bought the boat as it was the cleanest I could find after a yr of looking.

I pulled up the floor to get to the core and starting digging just forward of the transom. Finally had it all when I go to the bow eye.

Fun boat, expensive lesson.

I have the one from JR Overseas and I would kind of agree that they are not a tool you can trust. Things I use are a deep socket hitting the area all over listening for the dull thump. That would be the wet rot or the dry rot or the hollow area - not good. A solid ting noise is good.

Also a small dremel tool or drill with a small drill bit to drill a small hole not too deep and see if the wood comes out wet or if water drips out. Again on the inside no more than half way, If good seal back up with Marine Tex Epoxy

I am pulling the engines out of my boat this winter. I am wondering if Im going to find any rot issues. I think its good but it is a 1992. If I beat around with a hammer and it all sounds solid am I good??

I use an upholsterers tack hammer, light bouncing taps and listen for pitch changes and hollow sounds. Sounding is also something that requires a bit of a seasoned touch. Don't be afraid to drill some test holes in suspected areas either, if its dry it only takes a few minutes to cap it back off. I use a one inch carbide tile bit for that with the center drill removed.

rot and has probably ruined more boat deals than anything else. I would think with Fountains quality though they would have done it right and sealed all holes during construction.
The worst are the boats that have the mount's lag bolted to the top of the stringers. Even if sealed when built, w/heat, vibration, chemicals etc, it happens.
Tapping around the holes will tell a lot. Should sound like your tapping on the chrome bumper of a '69 Buick not a plastic bumper on a '99 Taurus.
Also look at the bolts when you pull them out and see whats on the threads. Then take a pick and poke around in the wood behind the glass.
If it's still in good shape, I'd thin down some resin and brush it into the holes. Resin does a pretty good job of protecting the wood but in it's natural state but it's too thick to soak into the wood very well. I use q-tips on small holes and chip brushes (small, cheap, disposable paint brushes) on the larger ones.