Thats kind of why i have been debating going to American Hi-tek
http://www.american-hi-tek.com/

do i wait until i damage a motor or just spend the money now and not worry about it

Good 4 U Buddy!! Best of luck!!!

Funny this came up today. I spent 2 hours today reading and researching which headers or manifolds I am going to order this week. It's pretty fukkin aggravating that I am trying to pick who's trash can I am going to throw $9000.00 into. How far are you from a prototype?
The boat is a 2004 Formula 382 with 525's. 230 hours. They don't leak yet...YET..

I've been running 2 sets of KEs 10yrs of hard running. Hard to beat thier perf too. Low on bling though is the common complaint about KEs.

Interesting system h2o. However. I have CMI's on my 525's and I had some issues. After doing extensive.. and I mean extesive research on headers with Merc. Racing. CMI etc. everyone I talked to they pretty much had the same answer. ALL headers will leak some time or a nother. I got the CMI's pretty much to the point of holding their own for a while.
Some time ago I promised on a thread that I will share some info. So here it is:
Connect the top of the headers (CMI especially) with a rod or soemthing like the tie rod on the ouitdrives. This will reduce movemennt and viboration, so the welds wont get too stressed and won't crack. Have the headers "move" with the motors, and not allow ANY flexing.
Change the tip/tail pipe rubber connection to a HD wire filed rubber hose. "Stiffen" the system up.
Always drain the headers after use but wait for .5- .75 hours untill they cool down. Don't drain them right of way. That's why I don't like the continious draining system with the small hose out on the transom, always draining. You stop you motor, the water drains out the headers actually heat up more. More expension/contraction more stress and cracks. Leave the water in the headers for a short time to allow the heat to decipitate.
On the CMI's with the "cool collar" there is a 1/4" - 1/2" non jacketed tube right after the flange that gets no water to cool. This is their weak area. Weld a few "beads" 90 degrees to the flange to stiffen this up and help heat transfer. (The big tube headers and the older CMI headers have the outter jacket all the way to the flange. Better)
If you don't wan't to weld, put some aluminum or SST corrogated or perforated material to this area to get the heat out of there. These may help, but no sure cure.
The crazy "thing" I came up with has no chance to leak. Your significant other may get pissed and put a nail through the darn thing or beat the hack out of the set with a hammer and I will still guarrantee that the motors will not get water, and be safe.

Hellava an idea HUH?
Thanks for the comments. keep them coming and I might just get this thing into the works.

dont really care about the bling...black will help to keep the price lower...lack of reliability is the one thing preventing me from buying headers...for now

Stainless Marine and KE already have products which fill this void. Some of us made the swich to these sysems a long time ago and never looked back. Others seem to be waiting for something new to come out or want to develop something on thier own? Why?

I had 10+ years on my old Stainless Marine's, about 4 years on the Aapche's new system. No leaks, no nothing...

Also, Mercury also has bars which connect the headers to the block to reduce movement.

Will your headers cover engine damage or just the headers? Huge difference here. I think they would have to be long tube polished SS. And not all CMIs are leaking junk. Honestly, I don't think you have a viable idea. JMO.

Owner sold them in favor of CMIs. That should tell you something....

Frank, I agree but the Stainless Marine won't fit the 525 heads unless you redrill the head. Stanless marine has a jig they will lone out (with deposit) but drilling holes in heads

Peter, as long as they are not really ugly I don't think it would be an issue if they work, don't leak.