Boat on Trailer Position?
05-03-2012, 08:04 AM
#12
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It may have moved on it's own. On my old boat, the ubolts holding the bow stop/winch were loose and it moved about 2-3 inches over time. I loosened it, pushed it back and tightened the ubolts. Good as new!
05-03-2012, 08:49 AM
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Good point CrownHawg...I guess I shouldn't throw the previous owner under the bus quite yet--I'll just move it back to it's original position and see what I end up with. 
05-03-2012, 09:01 AM
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Just additional food for thought
Pretty much, everyone is right!
I like to use a 10% as a starting point, but it is equally important on a larger trailer to make sure the 10% is there without the boat. If not then the starting % would be a little higher.
The bunks should be to the stern of the ransom. I like to have at least 1" but I guess there is no difference between 1/2" and 3", just as long as it is past. It is more important there is excess bunk beyond the transom on IOs and outboards than inboards. But that is only a very general statement, not a point of argument.
Another point not yet discussed is the winch mast. The strap (cable or rope) to the bow eye should be as level as possible when the boat is loaded. A slight up pull is better than any down pull. Generally it is best to not do the final snugging crank until the trailer is sitting level in the parking lot.
If there is difficulty loading, try different depths for the trailer, a little Murphy's Oil Soap on the bunks or a number of other "tricks". I use to spray a little WD-40 from time to time on the bunks, but later discovered on glass boats it tended to leave an ugly little stain.
With some trailers the best way to balance is to move the suspension/axle "truck" forward or back once you have the boat set on the bunks the way you want.
Typically a well balanced trailer/boat combination is a true pleasure on the road and at the ramp!
I like to use a 10% as a starting point, but it is equally important on a larger trailer to make sure the 10% is there without the boat. If not then the starting % would be a little higher.
The bunks should be to the stern of the ransom. I like to have at least 1" but I guess there is no difference between 1/2" and 3", just as long as it is past. It is more important there is excess bunk beyond the transom on IOs and outboards than inboards. But that is only a very general statement, not a point of argument.
Another point not yet discussed is the winch mast. The strap (cable or rope) to the bow eye should be as level as possible when the boat is loaded. A slight up pull is better than any down pull. Generally it is best to not do the final snugging crank until the trailer is sitting level in the parking lot.
If there is difficulty loading, try different depths for the trailer, a little Murphy's Oil Soap on the bunks or a number of other "tricks". I use to spray a little WD-40 from time to time on the bunks, but later discovered on glass boats it tended to leave an ugly little stain.
With some trailers the best way to balance is to move the suspension/axle "truck" forward or back once you have the boat set on the bunks the way you want.
Typically a well balanced trailer/boat combination is a true pleasure on the road and at the ramp!
05-03-2012, 04:14 PM
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This is exactly the information I was looking for BoatShow--thank you! I think your information along with the info posted in previous posts has me pretty comfortable on what I need to look for.
So, what's the easiest way to measure the tongue weight when trying to find a starting point? Also, wouldn't tongue weight change based on the height of the hitch as the higher up the hitch is, the lesser the tongue weight (thinking of the wheels of the trailer as a lever where the weight is on the back). Assuming a level on the hitch would also be an important step?
I think I'm getting there (at least in theory before pulling the boat out from winter storage).
So, what's the easiest way to measure the tongue weight when trying to find a starting point? Also, wouldn't tongue weight change based on the height of the hitch as the higher up the hitch is, the lesser the tongue weight (thinking of the wheels of the trailer as a lever where the weight is on the back). Assuming a level on the hitch would also be an important step?
I think I'm getting there (at least in theory before pulling the boat out from winter storage).
05-03-2012, 05:21 PM
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Level your trailer on your hitch. Keep the same weight on all tires. Plus it will pull nicely. +2 on the transom sitting on the bunks. Hooks in the bottom of your boat will suck. Artie
05-03-2012, 09:27 PM
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i hope this answers your questions
If we use as an example you have an 800# trailer a simple bathroom scale would work and you would want the weight to be 80-85#, no problem if a little more. Have the trailer jack on the scale and make trailer level.
Not a big difference; the principle of physics would give you a more accurate weight with the jack at the ball, but back a few feet is nothing to worry about here. This is not quantum physics.
Using an example of a 800# trailer and a 3200# boat, you want about 400# of weight when level. This can be weighed with one bathroom scale with a board and brick, but I don't want to try to explain the placement of a fulcrum and calculations, so if you can get two bathroom scales, simply place a board across them and add the two weights.
Here is where many people fail to address issues, and mentioned by akaboatman, when you hook the loaded trailer to the vehicle, if you get a 3" droop, drop, load sag; change the hitch to accomidate for the drop. Like aligning the winch mast, if you have a choice between a little bit of nose up or nose down attitude of the loaded trailer at the hitch, you are better with a little up.
There are always exceptions, but generally the balance will stay close to the same whether the boat is dry or loaded (within reason) so there is little need to worry about setting the weight transfer at the hitch fully loaded. If you are going to take a trip and use the boat as a hauling trailer, it is wise to put your load in as evenly distributed as possible.
Yes, you can overload the hitch also and it has the same effect of not enough weight, but it must be so far overloaded it is not likely to happen. SO, with your 4k# set-up, if you are at 500# and your tow vehile can tolerate the weight, no need to get excited.
akaboatman is also correct about equal weight on all tires on a multiple axle trailer, but with the trailer level it would be self regulating.
If you do not know the weight of your rig, on your way home from storage, simply go to a local feed mill and have them weigh it for you... off the vehicle! Most scales for weight only charge a couple of $ and it is more accurate then trying to find everything on the internet or through dealers.
Not a big difference; the principle of physics would give you a more accurate weight with the jack at the ball, but back a few feet is nothing to worry about here. This is not quantum physics.
Using an example of a 800# trailer and a 3200# boat, you want about 400# of weight when level. This can be weighed with one bathroom scale with a board and brick, but I don't want to try to explain the placement of a fulcrum and calculations, so if you can get two bathroom scales, simply place a board across them and add the two weights.
Here is where many people fail to address issues, and mentioned by akaboatman, when you hook the loaded trailer to the vehicle, if you get a 3" droop, drop, load sag; change the hitch to accomidate for the drop. Like aligning the winch mast, if you have a choice between a little bit of nose up or nose down attitude of the loaded trailer at the hitch, you are better with a little up.
There are always exceptions, but generally the balance will stay close to the same whether the boat is dry or loaded (within reason) so there is little need to worry about setting the weight transfer at the hitch fully loaded. If you are going to take a trip and use the boat as a hauling trailer, it is wise to put your load in as evenly distributed as possible.
Yes, you can overload the hitch also and it has the same effect of not enough weight, but it must be so far overloaded it is not likely to happen. SO, with your 4k# set-up, if you are at 500# and your tow vehile can tolerate the weight, no need to get excited.
akaboatman is also correct about equal weight on all tires on a multiple axle trailer, but with the trailer level it would be self regulating.
If you do not know the weight of your rig, on your way home from storage, simply go to a local feed mill and have them weigh it for you... off the vehicle! Most scales for weight only charge a couple of $ and it is more accurate then trying to find everything on the internet or through dealers.
Last edited by BoatShow239; 05-03-2012 at 09:32 PM.
05-04-2012, 07:11 AM
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Clarification of earlier comments
Something I want to clarify from my previous comments.
I tend to use my boat trailers a little differently than others normally do. There are times I tow my empty trailer fair distances. If you are only trailering your empty trailer very short distances and not at highway speed, there really is no need to balance it without your boat on it!
Sorry for not explaining that better earlier.
Don't bank on the trailer being "perfect" if back to the original setting because the trailer and boat are sold together. I have seen some real problems with the so-called factory settings. Chances are it is right, but no guarantee!
Also, if you do not have a receiver style hitch, leveling the trailer/vehicle if you have a loaded sag is harder to do, but it can be done.
I tend to use my boat trailers a little differently than others normally do. There are times I tow my empty trailer fair distances. If you are only trailering your empty trailer very short distances and not at highway speed, there really is no need to balance it without your boat on it!
Sorry for not explaining that better earlier.
Don't bank on the trailer being "perfect" if back to the original setting because the trailer and boat are sold together. I have seen some real problems with the so-called factory settings. Chances are it is right, but no guarantee!
Also, if you do not have a receiver style hitch, leveling the trailer/vehicle if you have a loaded sag is harder to do, but it can be done.
