03 Shockwave Tremor Chine walk
#12
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Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 235
Likes: 10
So i got this beast now and have come into some of the same issues, she runs hard but as you trim up to get the motor to rev out and kill some of the lysting, i think it becomes over trimmed and over lifted. the tremor has full length strakes right to the transom and where they are on the hull combined with the boat being set up with ITS - from what i gather it can add to stern lift??? - it gets to high out of the water and chines, trim it right down and it smartens up but kills speed, same with setting the tabs to just touch the water, am i out to lunch here or could i be on the right track? maybe add wings to her like a vector and let it fly?
But who knows...
Last edited by mitchie; 07-27-2017 at 10:26 AM. Reason: added nothing.
#13
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Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 252
Likes: 3
From: Kelowna
its got a stock bravo 1 28p on it from what i can tell, doesn't look to be worked over at all.
the tremor has a step in it, not a very big one tho, maybe a inch, inch and a half. driven lots of straight v hulls and had been use to feeling it ' break free' as you trim up this one never has that feeling like your ' popping it' out of the water. i played with trim and lower speeds and found its porpoise point and make sure to not cross it at speed, i would set the trim at cruises speed, about 50mph to get the most speed with the least rpms, its usually just a hair off full down, maybe the gauge needle thickness up, not much more or i start to loose speed and gain rpm, have tried as high as trimmed up to the 3/4 mark - first line on the gauge up from full down - also right near the porpoise point and it will run hard but starts to walk. it does have full hyd steering with the merc ITS
the tremor has a step in it, not a very big one tho, maybe a inch, inch and a half. driven lots of straight v hulls and had been use to feeling it ' break free' as you trim up this one never has that feeling like your ' popping it' out of the water. i played with trim and lower speeds and found its porpoise point and make sure to not cross it at speed, i would set the trim at cruises speed, about 50mph to get the most speed with the least rpms, its usually just a hair off full down, maybe the gauge needle thickness up, not much more or i start to loose speed and gain rpm, have tried as high as trimmed up to the 3/4 mark - first line on the gauge up from full down - also right near the porpoise point and it will run hard but starts to walk. it does have full hyd steering with the merc ITS
#14
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 760
Likes: 6
From: Jacksonville, FL
Does it have a stock length drive too? How far below the keel is the propshaft centerline? The drive may be in a little too deep for that setup which causes you to trim it way out and get loose versus a shorty lower requires less trim to free up the prop. From what I've gathered, with few exceptions, almost every single engine vee bottom over 80mph is going to take some learning, testing, and eventually you may just reach the hulls limit. If it has full length strakes all the way back, that may be too much lift at 80+mph, but it provides a lot of lift for a 496 boat. I'm in the same boat, mine starts to chinewalk over 85.
#15
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Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 252
Likes: 3
From: Kelowna
it looks like a standard length lower with the its, witch as i think i understand is the same as running it about a inch deeper then having it mounted right off the transom? i haven't checked how deep it is yet, been to busy driving it haha, but that is my next thing. i was able to get a couple fairly stable passes in the 80-82 area with a glass lake and counter steering the chine, im going to replace all the bushings on the steering arm mounts and change up the colum, it has some play in the tilt and thinking it may cause some free play in the steering at speed.



