So you did not convert to EOH? Just upgraded to discs and modified the master in the surge coupler?

Mine are...
 

on their way. Rebuilt my trailer and it's drum brakes and had it in salt twice when they stopped working. Pulled one wheel and found solidly seized together ingot.
Installing stainless vented rotors w/aluminum calipers.

Yep. You have to remove the check valve in the m/c that drum brakes need. (Not removing that feature is what caused mrfixxall's brakes to burn up.) The guys at Eastern Marine will explain how to do that. Drum brakes also require an inline fitting with a very small orifice (.016") to keep them from applying too quickly. This is usually a brass fitting, and can easily be drilled out to 1/16" or so for the disc brake application.

I also installed an inline pressure relief bypass valve (here) wired to the reverse lights on the outlet side of the m/c. Shifting to reverse causes this valve to open up and bleed all line pressure back into the reservoir so you can back uphill. If you use an inline electric check valve and stop on a downhill slope, it will just trap all the pressure in the system.

Outstanding , thanks . Will be calling on the marrow .

fixx
 

wasnt mine,,was a customers..yes im sure it didnt help any,,the caliper released but was slow,,what wore the inside pad was the idiots hooked the caliper to a steel brake line and it was applying constant pressure to the inside pad,thats where the comment make sure he gets rubber brake hoses also..

now you see why i like electric brakes..all the extra stuff that you have to get..

The check valve in the drum brake master cylinder is called the residual valve. As long as your master cylinder is relatively in decent, should only take a few minutes to pull that valve out.

I used the kodiak kit when converting mine to discs, going to eventually add brakes to the other axle as well. They work great now as is, except I have some seals that like to leak grease and soil the pads so I get a bit of a smoke show after a few stops.

Where?
 

My discs are due any day and I was unaware of this modification. Will this check valves location be apparent when I pull the master cylinder?

If you are upgrading the brakes, don't half ass it. Go ahead and do EoH. It's worth every fricking penny.

There is some good info on www.championtrailerparts.com about converting the master cylinder if you stay with surge.

Had the Titan EOH with drum brakes, upgraded to the Kodiak discs and new Titan calibrated for disc pressures. Tows and stops great.

Question for C_Spray . When you installed the pressure relief valve did you have to mod your m-cylinder reservoir for a return line ? If so how did you do it ? This will save me some $ .