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Sonic we must be on the same schedule . Install was so easy a caveman........I was impressed with the fit and finish of the Kodiak disc system . The only thing i did not care for was the made in China bearings . I prefer Timken bearings . EXAMPLE : I used to build aluminum coal haulers for the railroad industry . The ones that were ordered with Timken bearings could be rolled by a single man on a level track . The ones with lesser bearings were a bear to move in the summer and had to use the car haul winch in the winter . Timken bearings = less heat and fuel savings . Overall this is a great kit for the money .
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Interesting.
Originally Posted by the deep
(Post 3790019)
The only thing i did not care for was the made in China bearings . I prefer Timken bearings . EXAMPLE : I used to build aluminum coal haulers for the railroad industry . The ones that were ordered with Timken bearings could be rolled by a single man on a level track . The ones with lesser bearings were a bear to move in the summer and had to use the car haul winch in the winter . Timken bearings = less heat and fuel savings . Overall this is a great kit for the money .
I am very good at re-doing my money saving projects after realizing how/where/why I thought I was saving money ;) Reverse lock out arrived today and is installed. Need the 5 way plug to get the signal to it and hope to road test tomorrow. |
Warning on the reverse lock out solenoid........., w/it installed into the back of the master cylinder which is the easiest location, it is very vulnerable to being stepped on and broken. I walk all over the tongue of my trailer getting the boat on/off and it made it to the water twice before I broke it. Didn't even realize I was doing it.
Of course, broke it off flush in the back of the mater cylinder. Lucky for me that after removing it from the trailer an easy out actually worked for me for the first time in my life :thankyouthankyou: |
Originally Posted by Twin O/B Sonic
(Post 3800351)
Warning on the reverse lock out solenoid........., w/it installed into the back of the master cylinder which is the easiest location, it is very vulnerable to being stepped on and broken. I walk all over the tongue of my trailer getting the boat on/off and it made it to the water twice before I broke it. Didn't even realize I was doing it.
Of course, broke it off flush in the back of the mater cylinder. Lucky for me that after removing it from the trailer an easy out actually worked for me for the first time in my life :thankyouthankyou: |
Good stuff.
Originally Posted by the deep
(Post 3800676)
I removed my master cylinder cover , removed the paint from it and am welding on an extension to protect the R/L solenoid . Sonic maybe you should weld spikes on yours . :lolhit: I also flushed the DOT 3 from everything and will use DOT 5 , no more water absorption and rusted internals for me !! P.S. If spilled it wont take your paint off .
I'm going to build a shield for the valve as well. An easier solution would have been to add a 12" extension hose to the valve so you could hide it in the frame. One of my issues is the ramp I use. Never intended for boats this large and I have had to adapt to make it work. But........, it's 3 mls from my house :evilb: First time there w/the boat after the restoration we got caught in a storm on one motor and the dock at that ramp tore up my new paint while I went for the trailer. It's great as long as you're on your A game. Does suck coming back from the tiki bars though :cartman: |
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