may i add that if motor has a thermostat,it should be removed first.

Right.


Yea, my ilmor is closed cooling. So I just run it for about 10- mins.

So here's my take on it....with motors cold (525 EFIs) I pull all the blue plastic drains (headers at the rear of distribution tube, cool fuel, oil cooler, power steering cooler) let it drain, reinstall all plugs. 5 gal bucket on swim platform that has hose to muffs (duct tape on the water intakes on drive bullet). Dump a gallon of pink into bucket, fire motor and keep dumping pink to get good flow of pink from exhaust (slightly more than 3 gallons). Kill motor and remove drains again. Rationale is that if you don't drain the block before you start you're only diluting the water in block and in some areas maybe not at all. By draining block after pink stuff I want to give as much room for expansion as possible in case residual mixture does freeze. It's only a little more of my time, no additional cost and splitting block, headers etc. would really impact my summer. For what it's worth....

The impellers lost their prime and you got an air lock when you pulled the thermostat off and filled the block, that's probably all it is.

Just pull the 1-1/4 inch hose off at the thermostat housing that comes from your seawater pump/oil cooler/tranny cooler. Use your funnel and back-fill it with anti-freeze until it starts to come out of your sea strainer.

At any rate, you couldn't keep up with the pump at idle by dumping anti-freeze from a jug into the sea strainer. At least you shouldn't be able to, if you can that would indicate a worn pump.

It takes awhile for everything to fill up to where you get anti-freeze out of the exhaust once you drain everything.

sounds like there is an air lock...

I sort of do the same on mine. I don't have strainers, but I pull the main line in from the drives that runs to my impeller. Drain everything. Use a cheater hose to re-connect to the main inlet to my water pump and have someone start engine and start pouring. I run 6 gallons (probably way overkill) through each engine, and pink is always blowing out the exhaust.

While winterizing a lot of sea ray's we ran into the air lock problem. It sometimes helped if we used our cheater hose and blew through the system. Eventually it will go, I just think you got a dud on this one!

Also, a fine point in the description of correct winterizing by the manufacturer is propylene glycol antifreeze WITH anti corrosive additives. The cheap RV/ Marine antifreeze is not completely Propylene Glycol and it does not have anti corrosive additives.
Additionally, I would use -100 rated antifreeze since it is probably impossible to clear out all the water in the block and the extra protection will completely safeguard the block and risers.

I dug a huge pond in my back yard, I fill it with antifreeze put the boat in and run the motors.


NEXT!

i hope you are useing the super clean pink antifreeze,if not the algy from the grass in the yard will corrode the blocks before summer.i take mine to the cement pond that is full of special nasa -500 deg antifreeze and drive it in circles for 30 minutes.works like a charm.

Amateurs!

I leave mine in the pond and have an ice eater directly underneath. Keeps it from freezing and the bottom is nice and clean come springtime.