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-   -   Bravo XR drive breakage (https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/general-boating-discussion/289125-bravo-xr-drive-breakage.html)

LAriverratt 12-21-2012 07:40 AM


Originally Posted by cp5899 (Post 3835529)
How does the xr differ from the bravo 1? I am building a new 600hp motor for my 280 velocity that has a b1 and have heard of guys running 700 hp with stock b1 with out to many problems. Is it due to the 280 being a light boat? I'm still new to this, but was under the impression the xr drive was an upgrade to the b1.

In my industry we have transmission failers when using stock gears behind the high hp bike motors we build. Years ago we started cryoing gear seats and found that to extend the amount of power the gears would hold by about 10-15%. Still in need of stronger gear sets we started having complete billet gear and output shafts made up. The billet seems to be about 50-55% stronger than factory gears. Are there no options like this for boats? Or has it been tried and doesn't work.

For the bolts stretching problem. Why not have arp make up a set of bolts. I'm sure they can make a stronger option. I have an account with them if someone were interested in experimenting with having a bolt made.

I think the bavo shop cryo's gears or use to...check with them

http://www.bravoshop.net/

Donskihp 12-21-2012 07:52 AM

Teague rebuilt my lower and I got a new Teague Platimun upper, no trouble yet but only have about 10 hours on them. I was told that teague has the gears cryo'd

cp5899 12-21-2012 07:58 AM


Originally Posted by LAriverratt (Post 3835532)
I think the bavo shop cryo's gears or use to...check with them

http://www.bravoshop.net/



I don't need it done at this point. It was more of a question if anyone has tried it.

Does no one make a billet set of gears?

glassdave 12-21-2012 08:01 AM


Originally Posted by cp5899 (Post 3835529)
How does the xr differ from the bravo 1? I am building a new 600hp motor for my 280 velocity that has a b1 and have heard of guys running 700 hp with stock b1 with out to many problems. Is it due to the 280 being a light boat? I'm still new to this, but was under the impression the xr drive was an upgrade to the b1.

In my industry we have transmission failers when using stock gears behind the high hp bike motors we build. Years ago we started cryoing gear seats and found that to extend the amount of power the gears would hold by about 10-15%. Still in need of stronger gear sets we started having complete billet gear and output shafts made up. The billet seems to be about 50-55% stronger than factory gears. Are there no options like this for boats? Or has it been tried and doesn't work.

For the bolts stretching problem. Why not have arp make up a set of bolts. I'm sure they can make a stronger option. I have an account with them if someone were interested in experimenting with having a bolt made.

The XR case has a steel tower insert to support everything along with all the gear upgrades.

Smitty 12-21-2012 08:13 AM

Cryo treating helps extend the life of the gear to gear contact surfaces, but due to the design of the gear, it will fail eventually if too much torque is applied.

Also I don't feel the top caps lifting up has anything to due with the studs themselves. They thread into an aluminum case and will stretch or pull out the threads. I had one pull out. I heli-coiled all 4 and no issues loosening so far after 100 hrs.

Keith Atlanta 12-21-2012 08:18 AM


Originally Posted by Smitty (Post 3835549)
Cryo treating helps extend the life of the gear to gear contact surfaces, but due to the design of the gear, it will fail eventually if too much torque is applied.

Also I don't feel the top caps lifting up has anything to due with the studs themselves. They thread into an aluminum case and will stretch or pull out the threads. I had one pull out. I heli-coiled all 4 and no issues loosening so far after 100 hrs.


When will your solution be available? Straight cut or spiral cut gears? Whats the target price?

GeeterB 12-21-2012 08:21 AM

I'm going to say something that will probably be torched..but nonetheless...I have always wondered why if you were going beyond 600hp wouldn't you convert to a VI...It seems like that is the next level since SSMIII are gone along with trs drives? I know the cost is prohibitive to a point..but once you've trashed 3-4 drives..wouldn't have been better to go with the VI when you put extra power to the boat...just curious why more people don't make the switch to the 6 drive from the start?

pqjack 12-21-2012 08:24 AM

might be useful info if you guys stated the hp in front of the broken xr...i have only 10 hours in front of 600hp...so far,so good

JRider 12-21-2012 08:42 AM

Had the nut fall off the vertical shaft in the lower wrecking about everything in it.

JRider 12-21-2012 09:06 AM


Originally Posted by glassdave (Post 3835285)
yes it does, the left hand drive pushes up on the top cap under power and, in my case, stretches the bolts allowing the tolerances to go out.

I run mine left handed because the boat lists to the port side with a righty. Sucks, but I have not had a problem yet.

Get those arnesons installed and you will have no worries!


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