LS vs Big Block
#151
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From: Troy, Mich
#152
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From: Lake Dallas, TX
The stripes are at the waterline when the boat sits. The bow rises on take off and tabs help to level the boat. The boat is well balanced. There's a 100 gal ballast tank with pump in the bow to trim the boat in heavy seas that can be as high as 8 -10 feet crossing the Georgia Strait to his summer residence. My friend built the mold for the boat while he worked at Sovereign Yachts [ now Richmond Yachts ] here in BC. It's a one of hull, he destroyed the mold afterwards.
Under construction finishing rigging at his house

Helm
White gelcoat before painting the hullsides Boat has a swimgrid added since.
Rear entrance
Under construction finishing rigging at his house

Helm
White gelcoat before painting the hullsides Boat has a swimgrid added since.
Rear entrance

#153
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 596
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From: Okanagan Falls BC. Canada
#154
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Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 659
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From: Brooklyn Park, MN
Im a huge LS fan but Its job is not to replace a BBC in a boat. It does make a BBC almost useless in a sub 550-600hp form. if you add a blower then 850hp becomes the number where I like a LS better. Imo an LS motors biggest asset has nothing to do with the engine it self it has to do with all the engineering that the general has done. IE economies of scale.
If you are going to build a "gee whiz" ls engine with aftermarket everything then dollar for dollar (and like induction types) a BBC is going to piss on your parade.
If you are going to use GM to your advantage then use GM parts. LS3 heads are dirt cheap and damn good.
LS valve trains are simple stable and reliable.
LS blocks are pretty cheap and stable until you way beyond the design parameters.
350-400hp = 5.3l stock except 21x, 21x cam, comp 918 springs, hardened push rods, ls6, fast or Holley mid ram intake or edlebrock duel pane for carb.
400-475hp = 6.0l stock except 22X-23X cam, patriot double valve springs hardened push rods, Fast,Victor Jr, pro-flo, Holley Mid or Hi ram intake.
475-525 = 6.2l (or 6.0l with square port heads) stock except 22x-24X cam push rods, double springs Fast, victor Jr,pro flo or Hi Ram intake.
Add a 4" stroke crank to any of the combos (Vs 3.622 stock) should be good for +50ish hp and TQ
LSA is 550hp stock I would put better springs and push rods in stock one.
Throw a 2.4" pulley and you add about 80hp! (best $150 bucks ever)
Throw a cam in and port the snout on the blower and you are at just a touch under 700hp
Throw TVS 2300 blower (vs TVS1900) and you can get 800hp
Oh yeah if you shop smart you just spent under 25k, Marinized, closed cooled, electronics and all. And if you need a little more remember that 4" crank set up.
I would have no problem spinning a LS 1000-1500 Rpm faster than a BBC. The valve train only needs springs, and push rods to be reliable, Its also way lighter that a BBC VT, The bottom end is super stable and rotating assembly is lighter than a BBC so even at higher speeds the stress is not higher.
I would run an accusump on any engine turning those speeds though. (assuming dry sump is not in the budget)
If you are going to build a "gee whiz" ls engine with aftermarket everything then dollar for dollar (and like induction types) a BBC is going to piss on your parade.
If you are going to use GM to your advantage then use GM parts. LS3 heads are dirt cheap and damn good.
LS valve trains are simple stable and reliable.
LS blocks are pretty cheap and stable until you way beyond the design parameters.
350-400hp = 5.3l stock except 21x, 21x cam, comp 918 springs, hardened push rods, ls6, fast or Holley mid ram intake or edlebrock duel pane for carb.
400-475hp = 6.0l stock except 22X-23X cam, patriot double valve springs hardened push rods, Fast,Victor Jr, pro-flo, Holley Mid or Hi ram intake.
475-525 = 6.2l (or 6.0l with square port heads) stock except 22x-24X cam push rods, double springs Fast, victor Jr,pro flo or Hi Ram intake.
Add a 4" stroke crank to any of the combos (Vs 3.622 stock) should be good for +50ish hp and TQ
LSA is 550hp stock I would put better springs and push rods in stock one.
Throw a 2.4" pulley and you add about 80hp! (best $150 bucks ever)
Throw a cam in and port the snout on the blower and you are at just a touch under 700hp
Throw TVS 2300 blower (vs TVS1900) and you can get 800hp
Oh yeah if you shop smart you just spent under 25k, Marinized, closed cooled, electronics and all. And if you need a little more remember that 4" crank set up.
I would have no problem spinning a LS 1000-1500 Rpm faster than a BBC. The valve train only needs springs, and push rods to be reliable, Its also way lighter that a BBC VT, The bottom end is super stable and rotating assembly is lighter than a BBC so even at higher speeds the stress is not higher.
I would run an accusump on any engine turning those speeds though. (assuming dry sump is not in the budget)
Last edited by professor_speed; 04-17-2013 at 09:10 AM.
#155
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Joined: Apr 2010
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Im a huge LS fan but Its job is not to replace a BBC in a boat. It does make a BBC almost useless in a sub 550-600hp form. if you add a blower then 850hp becomes the number where I like a LS better. Imo an LS motors biggest asset has nothing to do with the engine it self it has to do with all the engineering that the general has done. IE economies of scale.
If you are going to build a "gee whiz" ls engine with aftermarket everything then dollar for dollar (and like induction types) a BBC is going to piss on your parade.
If you are going to use GM to your advantage then use GM parts. LS3 heads are dirt cheap and damn good.
LS valve trains are simple stable and reliable.
LS blocks are pretty cheap and stable until you way beyond the design parameters.
350-400hp = 5.3l stock except 21x, 21x cam, comp 918 springs, hardened push rods, ls6, fast or Holley mid ram intake or edlebrock duel pane for carb.
400-475hp = 6.0l stock except 22X-23X cam, patriot double valve springs hardened push rods, Fast,Victor Jr, pro-flo, Holley Mid or Hi ram intake.
475-525 = 6.2l (or 6.0l with square port heads) stock except 22x-24X cam push rods, double springs Fast, victor Jr,pro flo or Hi Ram intake.
Add a 4" stroke crank to any of the combos (Vs 3.622 stock) should be good for +50ish hp and TQ
LSA is 550hp stock I would put better springs and push rods in stock one.
Throw a 2.4" pulley and you add about 80hp! (best $150 bucks ever)
Throw a cam in and port the snout on the blower and you are at just a touch under 700hp
Throw TVS 2300 blower (vs TVS1900) and you can get 800hp
Oh yeah if you shop smart you just spent under 25k, Marinized, closed cooled, electronics and all. And if you need a little more remember that 4" crank set up.
I would have no problem spinning a LS 1000-1500 Rpm faster than a BBC. The valve train only needs springs, and push rods to be reliable, Its also way lighter that a BBC VT, The bottom end is super stable and rotating assembly is lighter than a BBC so even at higher speeds the stress is not higher.
I would run an accusump on any engine turning those speeds though. (assuming dry sump is not in the budget)
If you are going to build a "gee whiz" ls engine with aftermarket everything then dollar for dollar (and like induction types) a BBC is going to piss on your parade.
If you are going to use GM to your advantage then use GM parts. LS3 heads are dirt cheap and damn good.
LS valve trains are simple stable and reliable.
LS blocks are pretty cheap and stable until you way beyond the design parameters.
350-400hp = 5.3l stock except 21x, 21x cam, comp 918 springs, hardened push rods, ls6, fast or Holley mid ram intake or edlebrock duel pane for carb.
400-475hp = 6.0l stock except 22X-23X cam, patriot double valve springs hardened push rods, Fast,Victor Jr, pro-flo, Holley Mid or Hi ram intake.
475-525 = 6.2l (or 6.0l with square port heads) stock except 22x-24X cam push rods, double springs Fast, victor Jr,pro flo or Hi Ram intake.
Add a 4" stroke crank to any of the combos (Vs 3.622 stock) should be good for +50ish hp and TQ
LSA is 550hp stock I would put better springs and push rods in stock one.
Throw a 2.4" pulley and you add about 80hp! (best $150 bucks ever)
Throw a cam in and port the snout on the blower and you are at just a touch under 700hp
Throw TVS 2300 blower (vs TVS1900) and you can get 800hp
Oh yeah if you shop smart you just spent under 25k, Marinized, closed cooled, electronics and all. And if you need a little more remember that 4" crank set up.
I would have no problem spinning a LS 1000-1500 Rpm faster than a BBC. The valve train only needs springs, and push rods to be reliable, Its also way lighter that a BBC VT, The bottom end is super stable and rotating assembly is lighter than a BBC so even at higher speeds the stress is not higher.
I would run an accusump on any engine turning those speeds though. (assuming dry sump is not in the budget)
I think water thunder has a similar setup for 15K with closed cooling, but that includes their down turned headers. IDK what they'd refund you for leaving those off. May get it down to 13K.
The thing I like about the ls motors in the500-600hp range over bbc's is I think they'll be easier on bravo drives due to the torque kicking in later in the curve.
#156
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Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 93
Likes: 0
From: Mound, Louisiana
How about a V12 LS motor? 8.9 liter using stock stroke and bore. 
http://www.motorauthority.com/news/1...some?fbfanpage
http://www.foxnews.com/leisure/2013/...chevrolet-v12/
http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversion...ls1-build.html
It's pretty expensive, but hey, it's only money, right?

http://www.motorauthority.com/news/1...some?fbfanpage
http://www.foxnews.com/leisure/2013/...chevrolet-v12/
http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversion...ls1-build.html
It's pretty expensive, but hey, it's only money, right?
#157
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Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 2,728
Likes: 8
From: Troy, Mich
http://www.thomsonautomotive.com/youtube.html
700 hp, 780 ft. lb on 10 lbs boost.
Yeah, no low end torque in these motors.
700 hp, 780 ft. lb on 10 lbs boost.
Yeah, no low end torque in these motors.



