Gasp... Bimini Top needed...
08-18-2015, 08:05 AM
#21
Anyone have pictures of the tubular SS type on a cig? I've only seen one once in the 90's, in miami there was a top gun that had one, i'd always see it when crossing the causeway. It had the genie from aladdin painted on the side... looked pretty nice from far. I probably wouldnt do it but sometimes when its so damn hot i do wonder...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CQA67usV8BE
08-18-2015, 08:10 AM
#22
Nortech has built a few and they seem to incorporate them into/behind the rear bench when not in use. I'd rather go 10 mph slower than have a brutal sunburn or heat exhaustion!
08-18-2015, 08:51 AM
#23
Registered
Thanks for the highly detailed post. Can you show us some pics?
A run of the mill top will not work....
I have a 70 MPH top (that I use at 65+ 90% of the time I am boating) and it took some effort to make it work....
If your boat does 70 MPH. Do you ever run to a 20 MPH+ wind? You need a top that will handle 90 MPH+ wind speeds to have a top that will handle 70 MPH
Find a local to you shop that has experance making tops (it not likely that they will have experance making high speed tops). and have them make you one to the specs below (you can remove the price I paid in an effort to get a better deal)
7/8 stainless is not going to cut it, for that matter either is 1" stainless.... You can either use 1.125 stainless or do what I did and use 1" Stainless with 7/8" stainless inserted into the 1" before bending it (the large bows only, the short ones are single wall 1"). The prices are similar but I like the look of the 1" (the 1.125 gives it kinda of an industrial look) and it is much harder to find fittings for the 1.125"
Use Sunbrella fabric and your going to want to use 4 bows, the canvas will have to be TIGHT (If I am putting the top up alone I have to use a small ratchet strap to get the screws in).
Make it as low as practical and it is VERY important that you angle of the top (which is basically a wing) be neutral (or flat) to the water when the boat is going fast. (use a level on the floor if your lucky it is level when your going fast, if not note how much it is off by and adjust your tops angle accordingly). make sure that the leading edge is back at least 2 or 3 inches from the top of the windshield (it can funnel the deflected air from the shield and turn the top into a parachute). The top needs to be designed almost flat with only about 3" of rise in the inner two small bows (and you do not care about rain run off).
Of course use 4 stainless to hold the top front and back (they can be 7/8 but for the few extra $$ matching it with 1" looks better). Forget set screws, use Stainless 3/16 rivets in all of the fittings for a few trips and once you got it adjusted where you want it drill all the way through the fitting on the leading edge (the ones that take the full wind effect) and through bolt with 3/17 stainless machine screw. "Do not try to use the top at high speeds with only set screws".
Once it is on the boat and you have blasted around some the fabric is going to stretch I suggest that you use a short length of 1" spa hose in the bow pocket as a shim till the fabric has had a chance to fully stretch (on the boat for a couple of weeks and 3 hours or more of blasting). Then you will have to take it back to the builder to have the two small bows replaced (they will be about 1" short because of the stretched canvas). My top guy bent the longer replacement bows at the same time he made the top while the bender was still set up for my width Etc knowing that they would have to be replaced. Once you replace the inner bows the front and rear supports will need to be shortened about 1.5 inches. This will give you a chance to adjust the angle of the top of you got it wrong the first time by taking it from the front of the back (or 50-50)
FYI: the top on my boat is 76 wide and 84" long, the cost to have it built was $1100. The shop made it clear up front that part of the reason the price was so high because he knew that he would have to tweek on it and that he would end up replacing the bows Etc. The top up reduces the top speed 3 mph, the top stored in the boot in the up positon reduces speeds 1 MPH (lay the boot down on the motor cover and there is no speed loss)
OK: I am ready for the jokes about the guy with the top on his boat.......
I have a 70 MPH top (that I use at 65+ 90% of the time I am boating) and it took some effort to make it work....
If your boat does 70 MPH. Do you ever run to a 20 MPH+ wind? You need a top that will handle 90 MPH+ wind speeds to have a top that will handle 70 MPH
Find a local to you shop that has experance making tops (it not likely that they will have experance making high speed tops). and have them make you one to the specs below (you can remove the price I paid in an effort to get a better deal)
7/8 stainless is not going to cut it, for that matter either is 1" stainless.... You can either use 1.125 stainless or do what I did and use 1" Stainless with 7/8" stainless inserted into the 1" before bending it (the large bows only, the short ones are single wall 1"). The prices are similar but I like the look of the 1" (the 1.125 gives it kinda of an industrial look) and it is much harder to find fittings for the 1.125"
Use Sunbrella fabric and your going to want to use 4 bows, the canvas will have to be TIGHT (If I am putting the top up alone I have to use a small ratchet strap to get the screws in).
Make it as low as practical and it is VERY important that you angle of the top (which is basically a wing) be neutral (or flat) to the water when the boat is going fast. (use a level on the floor if your lucky it is level when your going fast, if not note how much it is off by and adjust your tops angle accordingly). make sure that the leading edge is back at least 2 or 3 inches from the top of the windshield (it can funnel the deflected air from the shield and turn the top into a parachute). The top needs to be designed almost flat with only about 3" of rise in the inner two small bows (and you do not care about rain run off).
Of course use 4 stainless to hold the top front and back (they can be 7/8 but for the few extra $$ matching it with 1" looks better). Forget set screws, use Stainless 3/16 rivets in all of the fittings for a few trips and once you got it adjusted where you want it drill all the way through the fitting on the leading edge (the ones that take the full wind effect) and through bolt with 3/17 stainless machine screw. "Do not try to use the top at high speeds with only set screws".
Once it is on the boat and you have blasted around some the fabric is going to stretch I suggest that you use a short length of 1" spa hose in the bow pocket as a shim till the fabric has had a chance to fully stretch (on the boat for a couple of weeks and 3 hours or more of blasting). Then you will have to take it back to the builder to have the two small bows replaced (they will be about 1" short because of the stretched canvas). My top guy bent the longer replacement bows at the same time he made the top while the bender was still set up for my width Etc knowing that they would have to be replaced. Once you replace the inner bows the front and rear supports will need to be shortened about 1.5 inches. This will give you a chance to adjust the angle of the top of you got it wrong the first time by taking it from the front of the back (or 50-50)
FYI: the top on my boat is 76 wide and 84" long, the cost to have it built was $1100. The shop made it clear up front that part of the reason the price was so high because he knew that he would have to tweek on it and that he would end up replacing the bows Etc. The top up reduces the top speed 3 mph, the top stored in the boot in the up positon reduces speeds 1 MPH (lay the boot down on the motor cover and there is no speed loss)
OK: I am ready for the jokes about the guy with the top on his boat.......
08-18-2015, 10:33 AM
#24
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Or you can buy one pretty cheap that is stainless with all stainless hardware....Just measure your boat and there are any number of place online to order from. I got a 84" (48" height and 86-93" width) one for my boat this year with stainless hardware for just under $500 with the upgraded material. It is a 3-Bow with rear poles -- they say good to 40 knots, but I always put it down if I am going to run any kind of speed.
I think getting a "custom" bimini top is ridiculous, since they aren't actually custom, just putting the same damn pieces together, but hey, my pockets aren't that deep
I think getting a "custom" bimini top is ridiculous, since they aren't actually custom, just putting the same damn pieces together, but hey, my pockets aren't that deep
Last edited by BBCLiberator; 08-18-2015 at 10:47 AM.
08-18-2015, 10:50 AM
#25
Registered
yeah that was the one... and i remember that commercial!
That was a charter boat.......even used in a commercial that was on seemed like every ad break! Boat is at the 4 sec mark
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CQA67usV8BE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CQA67usV8BE
Charter Member
08-18-2015, 05:35 PM
#28
Gold Member
Gold Member
A run of the mill top will not work....
I have a 70 MPH top (that I use at 65+ 90% of the time I am boating) and it took some effort to make it work....
If your boat does 70 MPH. Do you ever run to a 20 MPH+ wind? You need a top that will handle 90 MPH+ wind speeds to have a top that will handle 70 MPH
Find a local to you shop that has experance making tops (it not likely that they will have experance making high speed tops). and have them make you one to the specs below (you can remove the price I paid in an effort to get a better deal)
7/8 stainless is not going to cut it, for that matter either is 1" stainless.... You can either use 1.125 stainless or do what I did and use 1" Stainless with 7/8" stainless inserted into the 1" before bending it (the large bows only, the short ones are single wall 1"). The prices are similar but I like the look of the 1" (the 1.125 gives it kinda of an industrial look) and it is much harder to find fittings for the 1.125"
I have a 70 MPH top (that I use at 65+ 90% of the time I am boating) and it took some effort to make it work....
If your boat does 70 MPH. Do you ever run to a 20 MPH+ wind? You need a top that will handle 90 MPH+ wind speeds to have a top that will handle 70 MPH
Find a local to you shop that has experance making tops (it not likely that they will have experance making high speed tops). and have them make you one to the specs below (you can remove the price I paid in an effort to get a better deal)
7/8 stainless is not going to cut it, for that matter either is 1" stainless.... You can either use 1.125 stainless or do what I did and use 1" Stainless with 7/8" stainless inserted into the 1" before bending it (the large bows only, the short ones are single wall 1"). The prices are similar but I like the look of the 1" (the 1.125 gives it kinda of an industrial look) and it is much harder to find fittings for the 1.125"
If you go for a top like this you have to thru bolt all the mounts to the fiberglass and thru bolt the fittings. Been there, done that, and ripped all the mounts out...
