FWIW, the ad for the 525 CI marine engine says it has ProComp heads. Also has a 4.310 bore on a GM block. I assume it must be a bow-tie block, because I didn't know you could go that large on the bore for a production 454 block, especially a Gen V/VI.

good catch, i know we used afr heads, dart bock, arp studs, scat crank and H-beam rods-not the best i know but i have a budget. mahle pistons and i believe clevite bearings have to look at the build sheet. holley HP carb.

i assume if i didnt pick my parts with Fred the build would of been cheaper as they would have used some of those china ****s.. like said i know 3 peole with good run time on his engines they to are built with the better parts. only time will tell :daz:

Yes sir, this is who is building my engines as well.

Im not sure I get the whole small bore, 4.5'' stroke thing. If starting with a new dart block, why not go with the large bore, and a 4.25 stroke for a 540.

IMO, and take it for whats its worth, based on his spec sheet, its a get what you pay for type of thing. Theres a lot of budget parts there.

Some questions i'd have for him on those builds on his site

What block is he using? Tall Deck or short

What valves are going into these Chinese heads? (Inconel hopefully)

What valve springs is he using?

What lifters?

What rocker arms?

What oil pans?

What compression ratio?

Is the carb a new marine carb or rebuilt automotive carb?

Is there a way to get the engine without the optional cork valve gaskets hanging out of the valve cover?

No offense, but I wouldn't pay 10k dollars for a setup with Chinese heads, Chinese HEI ignition and plug wires, Chinese rods, budget pistons, probably Chinese lifters and rockers. And if its using a production core GM block, I'd really not do it. 4.310 bore is maxxed out on that block.

i cant say i disagree with anything you have said here you hit all the main points. like a i said i did a SBC 427 and picked my parts, the other 3 guys i know have 502-540 bbc def no china heads they are AFR head engine. that one on the sight is not really a good deal as you stated. i dont know what Fountainfunatic is having him do, but i would not feel comfortable with that bbc set up on the site. you CAN NOT get away with cutting corners on a marine set up the way you can on a street strip. THEY JUST WONT LAST

Yep, one of the benefits of the 4.5" bore is the valve unshrouding that goes along with it = extra flow and more power. If you are building a towboat engine, then I could see going for max stroke and the smaller bore. My guess is that it is an economy thing - the 4.25 bore blocks are readily available for cheap, and to get that CID you have to max out the bore and throw a really long stroke in there. Trouble is, you run into all kinds of issues like side thrust on the pistons, possibly having to run a small base circle cam, oil pan clearance issues, extra windage, etc.

Here is a breakdown on the parts going into my motors. Keep in mind I am not wanting to have the highest hp or fastest boat. I am looking for reliability and a nice sound with a little more torque and power than I had with the mismatched engines that I had.


GM HP 4bolt Main Blocks
Forged Diamond Pistons
Eagle H-Beam Rods
Eagle Forged Steel Crankshaft
Comp Cams Camshaft
Comp Cams Roller Lifters
Comp Cams Pushrods
Comp Cams Valve Springs Kit
Melling High Volume Oil Pump
ARP Head Bolts
ARP Main Studs
Pro Comp Aluminum Rocker Arms
Cloyes Double Roller Timing Sets
2 sets of there Aluminum 320cc Heads
MSD Distributors
Taylor 10mm Plug Wires

These are obviously not the best parts money can buy, however for what I am doing with the boat these parts will work just fine. For the last 2 years I have done nothing but get to the lake and only spend a few hrs at a time and hoping when its time to leave the boat cranks and runs without motor issues. The last time we were in the water, one motor spun a rod bearing leaving 4 miles out to get back with only 1 engine. As long as the boat cranks and runs fine after this with minor matainance it is money well spent.

fixx
 

ok from what i see and looking at both websites and looking at google with the address's and from talking to a friend on mine that has been their you can walk out of skip whites performance machine shop rite next door to white performance over the counter performance parts..3349 and 3353 are rite next door to each other with maybe a shop in between.. not knocking the guy just posting facts thats all..

they are now 3-4miles apart i was just there last month. But at one time Skip White who is Fred's nephew sold parts out his building but has since moved to his own location. They do not affiliate them selves with them any more i dont know the details on that. I do know Fred can build a good reliable engine and use what ever parts you want him to, china USA whatever. the East stone drive location is Whites performance machine. Your facts may be a little old:party-smiley-004:

Not here trying to beat you up on your choice, just giving some insight, or at least attempting to. And the reason is this

Have been here on oso for almost 10 years, and other boating forums before that. Not to mention been playing with boats and engines since I was in high school.

I've seen it so many times, where people are attracted to those ''great prices''. And end up wasting a bunch of money, to only have to do it all again, and hopefully get it right the second time. But you're post stating that you ''don't need nothing fancy, and those parts will suit your boating style just fine, and not looking for a bunch of power. ''

Have heard many cases of the valve stems pitting up on these procomp heads, guides being junk after a short time, generic valve seats that can fall out, burn up, etc. Terribly inconsitant machining, decks out as much as .030 out of the box. What kind of boating is that acceptable for? None is the answer.

I would use a eagle crankshaft, i'd use eagle rods, nothing wrong, and in most cases, they're better forgings than stock GM stuff. But the machine work/clearances has to be checked with a fine comb.

Your parts list wasn't very detailed. The ARP fastners and stuff sound great, and comp cams stuff sounds great. But, more important, GM HP block doesn't tell me much. It could be a old Mark IV block from a 1975 Chevy, or a bowtie block from GMPP, or Gen V from a pickup truck core, and yes, this matters. If its a production block as I've said, and its being bored to 4.310, you'll have no room for rebuild and cleanups. If its a new Dart block, why bore it .060 over from the get go? Its not worth the extra few hp in my opinion.

I honestly think you'd be so much better off spending a bit more money, and going with a better QUALITY cylinder head, dart, edelbrock, etc, and some better rocker arms.