Thanks for the great ideas guys, bumping the ceiling to 14', turning one of the 12'wide doors to 16'..have to find out if i can put a drain in without too much regulations.

8 ft o/c with the poles is norm I would not go 4ft o/c with truss,not up here in the north country.just my 2 cents

I built a 40 by 60 and heat it in the winter. My biggest regret is that I did not do infloor heating. Seems like I have constant dampness problem.

Did they put a moisture barrier before pouring the floor? Looked into at least running tubes the tubes for floor heat..tubing was inexpensive but the foam insulation board under the floor was a little pricey for me

Supposed to be engineered for our snow load with trusses on 4' oc.like go for broke says thats why i am paying the builder
Hope the code enforcer would catch any issues when he looks over prints

+1 to all the above...If there is any sense of cation due to snow load, 2' centers for the trusses max and make sure they are engineered for suitable load..... and install the in floor pex piping for the radiant - right now you may think you do not want the building heated but you definitely can not go back and change your mind. Concrete natually will draw dampness and if you choose to sell - having the pex installed ready to and a heat source is a definite selling feature over a straight concrete floor.

Did you plan to sheet the roof under the steel ( I am assuming it will be a steel roof) or just lay down 2 by's on intervals? If you were going to sheet the entire roof - do yourself a favour stay away from OSB. We have removed tons of the stuff from builders that either took or gave the owner the option for OBS instead. of Plywood. One leak from a loose screw, a storm, whatever and it eventually swells/becomes garbage = 4+ times the cost of doing ply the first time around

Call Jerry or Sandra at J&S, great people. tell them Mike Hills sent ya.

Finger lakes builds a nice building. I've worked on a few for them. One suggestion on finishing the inside, use the white corrugated metal for the interior ceiling and plywood the walls. We just set my dads workshop at home up like that and it turned out amazing. The white metal amplifies the lighting and plywood makes it very easy to mount stuff to the wall. My shop is painted plywood and I needed about 3-4 times the lighting to get as bright as him.

Poles are 9' oc. Snow load is 140#. 90mph wind rating. I also got the "sky belt" (transclucent siding) on the south wall. Lets in tons of light. I was a little leary of it, but it doesn't look like the old translucent siding. Looks very nice.

I have seen some installers lay 1-2" SM sheet insulation as a base layer. I have also seen many of these floors crack even when the floor was scored. First hunch is the foam sheeting compressing.

We use Bubble/Foil/Bubble rolled out for the base layer and tape the seams. Same reflective values as the cheaper Foil/Bubble/Foil but the concrete doesn't react with the plastic bubble like it will destroy the foils. Because we score the floors, we also put the pex under the wire mesh and run minimum 2 full length runs of rebar under the posts over buried tubes.

4' span over time will sag between each truss as its a big span to support itself over. If you go with the 4' it will likely look scalloped over time.

As far as the code enforce -well, they only look out for the absolute minimum required by law - not what should be there to have a really well built building. Just how it is as minimum standard is usually pretty d@mn "minimum".

Do your homework and find a really reputable builder and look at his previous projects if possible.