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Originally Posted by Boxer
(Post 4033198)
With CMI's, its just a matter of time before they fail. I would equate it to holding a grenade with the pin out. I have run a set of Stainless Marine, Genlll, since 1998 with a supercharged single engine in a Sutphen. Walter Collins,TKO Sutphen, ran 10 years with Stainless Genlll's. Pete Nopper, Nopper Marine , Has 10 years on his 26 Sutphen race/pleasure boat. They are fairly light and make working on the engine easy .
According to Donnie at offshore performance who I have had nothing but great service from for 10 plus years (he has always made anything rite with me) there have been no problems with any of cmi headers he has sold sense 09 and he sells hundreds of them all over the world. |
The first 4-5 years most headers are good and you typically don't have any issues... It's about the 5 year mark onward that you begin to see small cracks in the collector area and around the exhaust ports. It's not just CMI's either.. I don't just say this from my own personal experience, I say it from having experience as a marine mechanic years ago. Also seeing a lot of friends who have replaced their headers over the years.
When I replaced my CMI's they were roughly 9 years old. My boat was even featured in the CMI show us your headers campaign years ago. The years up to 4-5 were good, years 6 trhough 9 they were repaired each winter up until it got to a point that the risk was too high to keep running them. They were Elbo tops, not even the 700 style. I consider them a wear item. On the flip side, the boat I owned before this, the Stainless Marine system was installed in 1998, I sold the boat in late 2004 and there was never an issue. I switched from CMI to Stainless Marine on my current boat because of the success I had with my Scarab and for the last 4 years everything is still good to go. I had the exaust off last month (as I do every season) to lash the valves and everything is still perfect. I imagine I'll do another decade plus with the current system. I also just purchased a SM system for my 2nd boat. |
Originally Posted by Panther
(Post 4033277)
The first 4-5 years most headers are good and you typically don't have any issues... It's about the 5 year mark onward that you begin to see small cracks in the collector area and around the exhaust ports. It's not just CMI's either.. I don't just say this from my own personal experience, I say it from having experience as a marine mechanic years ago. Also seeing a lot of friends who have replaced their headers over the years.
When I replaced my CMI's they were roughly 9 years old. My boat was even featured in the CMI show us your headers campaign years ago. The years up to 4-5 were good, years 6 trhough 9 they were repaired each winter up until it got to a point that the risk was too high to keep running them. They were Elbo tops, not even the 700 style. I consider them a wear item. On the flip side, the boat I owned before this, the Stainless Marine system was installed in 1998, I sold the boat in late 2004 and there was never an issue. I switched from CMI to Stainless Marine on my current boat because of the success I had with my Scarab and for the last 4 years everything is still good to go. I had the exaust off last month (as I do every season) to lash the valves and everything is still perfect. I imagine I'll do another decade plus with the current system. I also just purchased a SM system for my 2nd boat. This was all documented on video. |
It seems like for the price of one set of CMI headers for a 525 you could all most equip both engines with Stainless Marine manifolds for what Diamond Marine has them on sale for.. I have one newer set and one older set of headers on the boat. A row boat would be a simple solution but, I am too old to get it on plane any more. I really don't want to blow a engine due to header issues.
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I've never seen that before Somethin' Sexy and I've been around this stuff for a long time. It seems like you may have gotten a bad casting. You should have had a warranty if you purchased them new.
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You asked for advise. Several people have told you of their history with CMI headers. I don't have an axe to grind regarding this subject. We are consumers and have to pay for the product. I have never heard of a Stainless Marine manifold failing. Best of luck with your decision.
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Originally Posted by Boxer
(Post 4033460)
You asked for advise. Several people have told you of their history with CMI headers. I don't have an axe to grind regarding this subject. We are consumers and have to pay for the product. I have never heard of a Stainless Marine manifold failing. Best of luck with your decision.
I would like to wish all you boaters a Happy Thanksgiving |
Originally Posted by gnorthga
(Post 4029901)
Listen i have owned this boat going on 4 years and i know how to keep it running for a complete season
during off season 1. pull out all fuel injectors get flowed 2. pressure or water test headers 3. remove all old fuel 3. replace water pumps and change oil in fuel pump assembly replace mechanical fuel pumps if gas is present 4. leak motors down 5. if seaweed is present in intercoolers remove and send to radiator shop or re-install (install better sea strainer just for intercoolers to end this process. 5. new mercury fuel filters and water separators. This is annual maintenance every year to keep from breaking down in the middle of a season when I do this ever year we are able to make it to 6 or more poker runs a year and play on our lake 95% time trouble free |
Originally Posted by 39 Unlimited
(Post 4033722)
Got be be honest Gerald, this is a damn impressive maintenance schedule!
Ron Sporl performance tough me a lot of it after. I paid him for all the break downs. Lol Dont forget to change drive fluid and any filters and if you got #6 drives separate the upper and lower and tighten the the two nuts on the vertical shafts takes a special tool and look for gear ware. |
Originally Posted by 39 Unlimited
(Post 4033722)
Got be be honest Gerald, this is a damn impressive maintenance schedule!
In addition to his list, I also; * lash valves * replace water pumps * remove drives ans store them * inspect gimbals, bellows and bearing * change and inspect drive oil. Inspect all drive gears for pitting and rebuild as necessary. This hobby we have is crazy! |
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