Orthobam

More pics. I'm not sure what to show because I don't know a thing about them.

TeamSaris

In a nut shell, you will need an ACCEL Fuel Pump, Computer, Ignition System and return lines. The hardest part will be the fuel system rigging and ignition system change, although it really isnt that bad.
You could put EFI on those blowers, although it wont work as well as a Whipple style system for EFI.
At the very least, Jason can tell you what specifically to look for and take pictures of.
518-644-3080

kidturbo

Clean looking setup, love those old school stacks...

We considered using our DFI unit to trigger the nitrous system, instead used a progressive NOS controller to trigger the DFI timing retard. Worked flawlessly, spraying 300hp, dozens of bottles, and never so much as burned a electrode.

Bam, biggest issue I see with converting your [most beautiful] setup to multi-port is finding lower intakes with injector bosses. Those charge coolers make it a bit tight, but the rest should be pretty straight forward.

HaxbySpeed

Nope, pretty straight forward. A Holley HP universal retrofit kit comes with a USCG approved ECU and wiring harness, all the sensors you need including wide band O2, a regulator, a set of weld in bungs, universal fuel rails, and a 2000cfm billet throttle body with gasket. - $2200. A second 2000cfm throttle body is $850 and depending on your power level, a set of 83 or 120# injectors will run you about $350. Your fuel pump might work, if not you'll need a USCG approved pump - $300. There's a couple options for ignition. You could leave your boxes and change the distributor for about $200, or my preference for a set up like yours would be to run a crank trigger. Throw in $500 worth of hose and fittings and that should take care of all your parts. Now for the install.. I'd keep your Kuhl carb adapters and have them modified for the injectors and rails, (a very easy job), you should be able to reuse your throttle linkage. Find a place to mount the ecu; because the Holley ecu is heat, vibration and water resistant, and CG certified, you can mount it right on the engine. There's two power, and two ground wire's to hook up, and a fuel pump trigger wire. Everything else is pretty much plug and play, plumb your fuel system and install distributor or leave yours in and run a crank trigger. You'll need to weld an O2 bung in your exhaust too. Every connector is clearly labeled and uses OEM quality weatherproof connections.

For basic set up on engines like yours, I like to have a guardian system that will reduce engine power and rpm if it detects a parameter that is out of range. They are totally user programmable and I usually set it up for oil pressure, fuel pressure, water pressure, coolant temperature, inlet air temp, and battery voltage. You can also do AFR if you leave the sensor in, and a bilge alarm. You can choose to trigger a caution light first at say 150 degrees coolant temp, and then reduce rpm to 1200rpm if the temp gets to 180. You can choose the ranges for each parameter and trigger a light and buzzer only, or reduce rpm too. As soon as the parameter is back in range, full power is available again. I'd add a couple knock sensors too, and that should take care of the basic engine safeguards. With total control of your timing and fuel curves, and additional tuning options available to protect against detonation, you will have the ability to truly control your engine and make it do exactly what you want, when you want. No bad habits.

I'm not trying to spam this thread, I only included prices because Bam has repeatedly asked how much it costs. There's lots of good systems and tuners out there. If you do take the plunge, make sure at the very least that you're getting a CG approved fuel system to keep the insurers happy, that it comes with all the features you'd want, any replacement part/component is available almost anywhere, and the guy doing it has experience with your specific application.

Orthobam

Thanks a bunch. I will call you today.

Young Performance

I wouldn't say that I specialize in EFI. However, I do build and tune more EFI engines than carb engines. That's because my customers want EFI much more often. I'm an engine builder and tuner, not a salesman. I don't specialize in selling stuff, I specialize in building and tuning marine engines, whatever they may be. It really doesn't matter to me. However, I will usually nudge a customer to EFI, especially if we are building from scratch. Depending on the engine, you can go to EFI for less than 2K over a carb on a scratch built engine. Most end up being about $2500-3K more than a good carb setup. A custom build carb that is going to work well is not cheap. You can do a top notch EFI setup, with ignition system, fuel system, sensors, etc for about 5K. If you want to add DIS, it will add a few dollars. The benefits are many. Not only do you get almost unlimited tuneability, but you have much needed protection. Any engine that is making the amount of power that we make, on the crappy gas that we use, that are run at high rpms for extended periods of time like we do, will certainly benefit from all the protection that it can get.
Eddie

MILD THUNDER

I have worked with a few engines that have had some custom mail order carbs from big name carb shops, built for my friends applications. Unfortunately they were not anywhere near ideal as far as tune goes.

First set of carbs were on a roots blown 871 setup. The carbs came shipped with 82 jets squared, and 6.5 PVs front and rear. In order to get the AFR in the 12 range, they needed 90 jets in the primary. Carbs were not boost referenced. The power valve channel restrictions were drilled so large, that once the PV opened in the curve, the AFR plummeted into the low 10's at 4000RPM. At 3500RPM, they were at 12.3ish. Had they been run out of the box, the AFR at 3500, where the engine in this particular boat is starting to see a little boost, the AFR would have been in the 13's.

Another deal was a blow thru setup. The metering on these particular carbs were so off, that at 3000RPM, the AFR was in the 9's. By the time it got to 6000, the AFR was 13ish.

I guess what I am getting at, is I personally don't expect to buy a carb from a custom carb builder, bolt it on, and go. I know some have done it, but for what some of these custom carb builders charge, your better off getting a standard off the shelf carb and do your own tuning. I am a fan of the carbs from Quick Fuel. They offer so much in the way of tuneability. Not just air bleeds, but screw in idle feed restrictors, emulsion bleeds, power valve channel restrictions, big sight glasses, billet baseplates and metering blocks, and most of all, they look cool and aren't really much more if any than a stock holley, and usually cheaper than one of these ''custom worked over with a bunch of drill bit carbs". There is so much more to dialing in a carb than just jet swaps. If your gonna buy a carb, and want to get the cleanest most efficient setup, invest in a wideband, and prepare to spend some time tuning. Several years back, most installed a carb, did a wot pass, checked their plugs, and called it good. More people were running around with poor tunes, wasting fuel, washing rings, or burning pistons. While I think every engine should be dyno'd , a I feel tuning in the boat is also crucial, as the tune will change a bit.

Also, I have used the FAST wideband with good results, and the NGK Powerdex. AFX. The NGK can usually be found for around 250.00 if you shop around. Its simple easy to read, and can be calibrated for accuracy.

My opinion that's the bare minimum way to go nowadays, if EFI isn't in the budget. Otherwise, get your EFI ON!

SummerObsession

Well it's not like it's your daughter, right? Priorities my friend!

phughes69

Kinda of related to this topic. Several years ago I installed a Megasquirt 3 ECu on my SBC 86 Vette. The tuning program will auto calibrate the main fuel table to correspond to the desired AFR table. One of the new features is the warmup autotune. It looks at the desired AFR table and the correction factor based on coolant temp and corrects the warmup enrichment. So now I go outside and start the car and just let it warmup and it corrects itself. Show me a carb that can correct it's self.

the deep

That's what an electric choke does.......