A little winter upgrade project
 

I started with this......

Then found this....
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Which lead to this,,,,[ATTACH=CONFIG]520553[/ATTACH]

And progressed to this....


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When did you start this project? Looks like a good amount of work you got going on there.

Been collecting parts for a while, started the new floor in January

What are the wood chunks on the side of the console for??? That boat should be a Ball as a Sit down. Be sure when youre sitting that your feet can push on the Kick panel, this will hold you in the seat. if you have a flat floor and you can't push back you won't feel secure.

That console is actually the mold for this... its a bit to small though so I am making one from scratch.

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I'm not sure Rob has quite the grasp on what we're all about here. He brought over a box of stuff today an showed us his spiffy new 120 mph speedo and told us he was sending it back to Gaffrig to get re faced to like a 70 mph speedo . . . . . no Rob thats not how ya fix it . . . . ya re power to make the boat run 120 :picard1: . . . . :D

Possibly you have me/ my boat confused with....

http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/g...e-1000-hp.html

I like the eject switch

This guy can't be serious :eekdrop:

I was wondering when we were going to see some updated pictures. Only you could understand why I am partial to the bolsters you took out. Looks great!!

spent the day cutting and drilling holes for the chartplotter, gps antenna, trim sticks, azimuth compass etc. and did a little more derigging. SAturday I hope to finish the holes, get mesurements for the battery shelf. sunday I will make the console and shelf then its time to start putting the boat back together.

Got the console built today.... just need to add the cupholders and then lots of polyurethane and sanding

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Sweet consoul...

Looking good

looks great, keep the pics coming

Might I ask what you used the Porta power for..

I used it to pop the old floor loose.

Not much progress to report right now. I have been finishing the console. sanded it, added a coat of sanding sealer, sanded, another coat of sanding sealer sanded polyurethan, sanded, more poly.. more of the same tomorrow. Since the console is 3/4 marine ply I want to make sure its sealed good. When checking the fit I noticed that the factory cut job on the bottom of the dash was more than likely done by a drunken trunk monkey. So I have been straightening that, Made a template for the battery shelf while the poly was drying and more parts and rigging supplies show up daily., I think the mailman is beginning to hate me, every day 3 or 4 packages....

Looks great!!!

The console is done for the most part. still need to put the rear cup holders in, step plates and controls. Dropped the control base off at the chromers today. Now its time to flip it over and start cutting crimping and shrink tubing.

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Lookin good Phragle!

a little more progress.. using all double crimp heat shrink terminals overwrapped with more heat shrink....

Not the best picture, but to mount the upholstered panels, I didn't want screw heads poking up under the vinyl. So I made a fixture to hold the screws in the lathe without damaging the threads, and cut the heads off. Next I applied red loctite and screwed on the T nuts. Then I swedged the T nuts to the screws on 4 sides with the arbor press and finally double peened the threads at the surface of the T nut. Probably overkill but nothing worse than something coming loose where you need to pull half the boat apart to get to it and tighten it back up.

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Lightning Jet Helped me get the side panels for the console upholstered today Came out great. Im a lucky muppet having him and GlassDave helping me on this project. [ATTACH=CONFIG]522061[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]522062[/ATTACH]

The underside of the back seat was open to the bilge and was basically worthless for storage. The only thing under there was the battery. So I took some 3/8's, glassed it on both sides and stuck it on with a double layer of tabbing. Since I wanted to add a battery and had to relocate one already I needed to find a new place to mount them. Had plenty of room in from of the engine so I laminated 2 pieces of 3/4's together with a 3/4 tongue on the front that slides under the 3/8's and rests on the rear bulkhead. For the sides I used some heavy alum angle that used to mount the motormounts on a Skater and thru bolted them to the stringers.With the Gill battery mounts it should be bomb proof.

Before:

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After:


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The new dash is starting to take shape.......

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Really coming along!!! Looks great.

OK I thought the eject switch was just for fun but I see you have it wired, so what does it do and where can I get one?? Nice work by the way.

I have a switch for the new GPS that is unmarked. I HAVE TO HAVE that eject switch for that!

Got the switch from new wire marine. great people to do buisness with,

Got the rest of the dash stuff mounted, gps, steering, gps antenna, compass, igntion and teather. got the trim screwed in under the dash. Also got bilge stuff mounted. Amp, bilge lights, blower, batt. switch. One more day of prep and I will be ready to string wire.

So, in wiring the boat I got to thinking... With my offroad racing background, you need to build systems that will get you home no matter what goes wrong. So I did my best to split the electrical system into 2 parts. The main power coming off the merc 9/10 pin harness only powers the ignition and gauges with its own ground, The ignition and gauges are fed by a blue seas 6 gang fusebox with negative bus bar, also the circuit breaker on the motor. The fusebox is mounted behind the dash.

For the accessories (stereo, lights, bilge pump etc) I ran a separate 10 ga. power and ground wire from the battery switch (going directly from the battery switch to a 50 amp merc breaker) then to the front of the boat with the ground terminating at the battery. This feeds a 12 gang blue seas fuse box with neg. bus bar inside the console then to the switches.

This should isolate the 2 separate systems somewhat. The stereo amp has a separate feed from the battery switch with a 60 amp merc breaker inline. The auto bilge pump/float switch is ran directly (fused) and grounded directly from the deep cycle battery.

Sound good? or am I over thinking/rigging things?

Getting closer. Threw power to it for the first time.. Nothing went POOF, thats a good sign!!! test bilge pump, bilge lights, courtesy lights, chart plotter, nav lights, azimuth, blower so far and everything is working first try. Stereo cranks. Water test in 2 weeks.

Good job Phrags . Time to enjoy the fruits of yourn labor . :party-smiley-048:

Trim stick heads up indicators... no provission for mounting them on my lencos, so time to do some fabbing. The cable holders on the cylinders are modified billet bosch fuel pump mounts. Things got a little interesting because I replaced one the actuators last summer. They have slightly different measurements and travel so each side had to be set up a little differently. Goy it figured out so that there is less than a 1/4 in difference in travel. Drilling the stainless tabs was a chore. First 3 holes went pretty easy, on the last hole my pilot bit was dulling and work hardened it. that hole took 3 hours... This weekend I make a trip to the hardware store for proper length fasteners.

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Looking great!!! Tonight is the first time I have seen this thread!

3 hours! you need to visit HF for 2 or 3 sets of cheap drill bits and then get a can of tap-magic from your nut and bolt vendor.

Your project is looking awesome btw

I pretty much went thru my entire set of HF bits, either broke them or dulled them...

cool sit down makover!