Prop polishing can it be done at home?
03-26-2014, 05:25 AM
#12
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To do it efficiently a large pedestal grinder with buffer is needed. As far as polished props slower, that is what people say but I have never seen any data leading to that conclusion. I feel in a race atmosphere it is not worth the time/money to polish when there may be more frequent changes made to props. I run either however I prefer polished. How do we know the microscopic satin scratches dont lead to cavitation or cracks? All this is pure speculation as I have no data and have not seen any.
03-26-2014, 01:46 PM
#14
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To do it efficiently a large pedestal grinder with buffer is needed. As far as polished props slower, that is what people say but I have never seen any data leading to that conclusion. I feel in a race atmosphere it is not worth the time/money to polish when there may be more frequent changes made to props. I run either however I prefer polished. How do we know the microscopic satin scratches dont lead to cavitation or cracks? All this is pure speculation as I have no data and have not seen any.
My mentor at Mercury Racing did quite a bit of testing on this subject a long time ago. Satin is faster by 0-1+ mph. In other words it can be a very small gain yet it is there. At BBLADES we are always looking for the last .7 or 1.7 mph we can get.
Hi-polished props look real pretty on the trailer but if there is a advantage to a satin finish, why not take the advantage. I understand bling. Guys like bling. Mercury Racing understands it too. That is the only reason they went to hi-polish on the #6 props and the OB cleavers. Bling.
As far as microscopic lines leading to cracks, I've seen as many or more hi polished props crack than Labbed satin finished props we do. Cavitation? Not even remotely related.
Think of miniscual droplets of water between the satin lines. Water over water is faster than water over smooth steal. Try touching a drop of water on a table top with the back of a teaspoon. You can stretch it because water has elasticity. Now scratch the back of the spoon with light sandpaper and try it again. Water will not hold to the spoon. Hmmmm.
Anyway, the prop shops who preaches hi-polish as faster is most likely a really good polisher and may not have a handle on other prop geometry idiosyncrasy's. Or not.
Anyway, we take a ton of pride in our hi-polishing as well. We are happy to do it for anyone who requests it. We use 18" cotton buff wheels on a Hammond buffing lathe. We use multiple steps of compound and rouge. It is never done in a machine. It is only done by hand for certain reasons. One reason......maintaining tolerances of the recipe I drew up for the Lab process.
Ok, I'm done babbling.
Brett
__________________
Brett Anderson / BBLADES Professional Propellers
920-295-4435 http://www.bblades.com/
[email protected]
Brett Anderson / BBLADES Professional Propellers
920-295-4435 http://www.bblades.com/
[email protected]
Last edited by bbladesprops; 03-26-2014 at 01:48 PM. Reason: addition
03-26-2014, 02:25 PM
#16
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Not speculation. I have seen data and have paid close attention to this issue for 20 years.
My mentor at Mercury Racing did quite a bit of testing on this subject a long time ago. Satin is faster by 0-1+ mph. In other words it can be a very small gain yet it is there. At BBLADES we are always looking for the last .7 or 1.7 mph we can get.
Hi-polished props look real pretty on the trailer but if there is a advantage to a satin finish, why not take the advantage. I understand bling. Guys like bling. Mercury Racing understands it too. That is the only reason they went to hi-polish on the #6 props and the OB cleavers. Bling.
As far as microscopic lines leading to cracks, I've seen as many or more hi polished props crack than Labbed satin finished props we do. Cavitation? Not even remotely related.
Think of miniscual droplets of water between the satin lines. Water over water is faster than water over smooth steal. Try touching a drop of water on a table top with the back of a teaspoon. You can stretch it because water has elasticity. Now scratch the back of the spoon with light sandpaper and try it again. Water will not hold to the spoon. Hmmmm.
Anyway, the prop shops who preaches hi-polish as faster is most likely a really good polisher and may not have a handle on other prop geometry idiosyncrasy's. Or not.
Anyway, we take a ton of pride in our hi-polishing as well. We are happy to do it for anyone who requests it. We use 18" cotton buff wheels on a Hammond buffing lathe. We use multiple steps of compound and rouge. It is never done in a machine. It is only done by hand for certain reasons. One reason......maintaining tolerances of the recipe I drew up for the Lab process.
Ok, I'm done babbling.
Brett
My mentor at Mercury Racing did quite a bit of testing on this subject a long time ago. Satin is faster by 0-1+ mph. In other words it can be a very small gain yet it is there. At BBLADES we are always looking for the last .7 or 1.7 mph we can get.
Hi-polished props look real pretty on the trailer but if there is a advantage to a satin finish, why not take the advantage. I understand bling. Guys like bling. Mercury Racing understands it too. That is the only reason they went to hi-polish on the #6 props and the OB cleavers. Bling.
As far as microscopic lines leading to cracks, I've seen as many or more hi polished props crack than Labbed satin finished props we do. Cavitation? Not even remotely related.
Think of miniscual droplets of water between the satin lines. Water over water is faster than water over smooth steal. Try touching a drop of water on a table top with the back of a teaspoon. You can stretch it because water has elasticity. Now scratch the back of the spoon with light sandpaper and try it again. Water will not hold to the spoon. Hmmmm.
Anyway, the prop shops who preaches hi-polish as faster is most likely a really good polisher and may not have a handle on other prop geometry idiosyncrasy's. Or not.
Anyway, we take a ton of pride in our hi-polishing as well. We are happy to do it for anyone who requests it. We use 18" cotton buff wheels on a Hammond buffing lathe. We use multiple steps of compound and rouge. It is never done in a machine. It is only done by hand for certain reasons. One reason......maintaining tolerances of the recipe I drew up for the Lab process.
Ok, I'm done babbling.
Brett
there you have it... u want bling buy a gold set of teef, you want speed go satin...
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