wobble, these boats are know for excessive voltage drops from engine to helm, dont help the fact that they pig tail all loads at the helm to gether...they feed from one to the other to the other to the other......others add a big hot wire and a big ground from engine to helm and tie it all in on bus bars...this i hear dastically improves the voltage drop issue. I have had my dvom (volt meter) on the water and when my guages say 12v....my dvom will say 13-13.5 at batteries which is fine...just dont know why they are getting hot unless like you said above..they are running maxed out all the time..........?

bottom left...$77.95....65amp. I have the red wired into the red on boat harness and purple wired into purple on boat harness. big orange wire goes to charge stud and ground from boat harness to alt case ground...and i Painted mine black before installing, but i masked off innerds to paint wouldnt get inside....looking at the ones rated for 110amp toward the top of page...the 65amp are the ones im running NOW

Pic

You can call me Mark, I only wobble after a day on the bay, 65 amps should cover all that you are running, there must be a drain that far exceeds that number....thinking.

I have had many bad experiences with invertors including fires, is there any way to exclude that?

I'm really not seeing anything that raises a red flag. Are batteries all good?

You might ty Wobbles suggestion and just unhook your inverter at the battery and see what happens, start eliminating possibilities. If no change, then unhook the port ACR to disconnect the port alt and start battery from the rest of your system.
Not knowing which ACR's you have, might check into if they will handle the larger amps if you do install larger alt's. I don't think the smaller Blue Seas ACR will handle 100A, where as the larger ACRS will. Those will actually work as a battery switch and allow you to pass full current thru the ACR for jump starting. The smaller ACR's are just for charge current




Are your battery cables warm too when your alts are hot?

Mark..yes, I have a perco on/off that i can cut power going to the cabin. The alts still get hot when charging the four batts. US1...the batteries are newer..only 2-3 yrs old. They come inside during the winter, i check the water level and put them back in the boat. Cranking batts are interstate marine cranking (24) and my houses are autozone marine deep cycle (27) and Im pretty sure Johnson coltrols makes their batteries... I am a auto tech going on 15 yrs...im pretty sharp when it comes to this stuff but thought id throw it all out there...several heads are better than one. I have not load tested the batteries...but all of them took and charge ok before putting them in the boat. The cranking batteries will crank its engine just fine....

US1....THANKYOU for posting the diagram...Im not a big computer gooroo...and we have a very old vista home pc that is a pile of sh#$!!

just the alts..cables dont get hot. I am running the bigger acr's pn 7610...sais good for up to 120amp alts....

No problem. Easier if everyone is on same page.

I am running the same batteries as you (27 interstate starting and 24 houses from auto zone) and they work fine for me also. You have plenty of alternator power to run everything. The only part that doesn't make sense to me is one battery switch for two engines. Each motor should have its own switch I have two of these clusters in my boat one for each side, and then the Blue Sea 7622 to combine the house banks if needed as mentioned earlier.
http://www.bepmarine.com/home-mainme...-battery-banks

Are you using one of these for both motors together?
http://www.perko.com/catalog/categor...s/product/952/

to keep your setup as is you should have one of these on each motor in between the start battery and engine or similar and add the relay or another switch to manually control the house battery combining and you should be set.
http://www.perko.com/catalog/categor...s/product/150/