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These engines were done for a buddy and I bought the boat to get the engines, he used PBM parts (Erson) and ARP bolts for whole engine according to paperwork, I am in the engines for nothing really so I didn't care, I thought all the parts were eagle until I already had the engines and looked at some things before putting them in Cig, better then the 420's I had, I will be using Eagle rods and crank if that also needs replaced, I will see what crank looks like when I remove it, I expect to replace that too...
the person that built the engines sucked, I redid heads last year to my likings and put the Inconel in that he didn't, I wanted to redo shortblocks anyway, but really was hoping to not break hard parts... I will make sure they are better then ever with parts I can save and they will be fine... one engine was wearing bearings more then I thought they should when I inspected but that was with lower oil pressure and the wrong bypasses the idiot had in them, I shimmed pumps and put 11lb bypasses in, oil temps never went over 200 and oil always looked good... when I ran Scarab back the tempos were 250+ just cruising so I delt with that right away...its a long story but I got these engines for free in the end, I can afford to make them better now... here is link to rods they used, http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...73231344,d.cGU |
Bummed a little but its the end of August and Ohio weather sucks anyway this year..... guess its time to enjoy he Cobra more haha
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Originally Posted by SB
(Post 4173206)
and rods ?
'H Beams' in of themselves mean nothing to me. |
The parts in them would not be my first choice but it is what it is and they gained me 10 mph over my 420's..598HP and 660TQ to push the heavy tird...
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Originally Posted by Full Force
(Post 4173247)
...wrong bypasses the idiot had in them, I shimmed pumps and put 11lb bypasses in, ...
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I think your assessment is on in that it broke a rod bolt, which then caused all hell to break loose.
I didn't see it specified in the link, but those rods probably have ARP 8740 bolts, which are the cheaper bolts. Personally, I won't use the 8740 bolts. Even if I use an import set of rods, I still go for the 2000 bolts. You mentioned using Eagle crank and rods in the rebuild. IMO, there are much better choices out there in the same price range. But that's my opinion. I will not use Eagle's stuff. I know there are quite a few other builders that feel the same way. Sorry about your troubles. Sounds like you aren't to upset, so that's good. Good luck with it. Eddie |
Originally Posted by Budman II
(Post 4173262)
Did you mean to say you pulled out the 11 lb bypasses and installed the 30 lb ones? I think that is the proper direction to go in. Thought I would point that out to keep anyone from being confused. Good luck with it.
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Originally Posted by Young Performance
(Post 4173263)
I think your assessment is on in that it broke a rod bolt, which then caused all hell to break loose.
I didn't see it specified in the link, but those rods probably have ARP 8740 bolts, which are the cheaper bolts. Personally, I won't use the 8740 bolts. Even if I use an import set of rods, I still go for the 2000 bolts. You mentioned using Eagle crank and rods in the rebuild. IMO, there are much better choices out there in the same price range. But that's my opinion. I will not use Eagle's stuff. I know there are quite a few other builders that feel the same way. Sorry about your troubles. Sounds like you aren't to upset, so that's good. Good luck with it. Eddie |
I also don't have endless budget to use best of the best for a old cigarette... I am a blue collar guy that wheels and deals and all that, I have good stuff for what I spent and gotta do the best I can with my financial Abilitys I do my own work that saves me tons... But I take advice and do the closest I can to it !! My last set if engines my buddy helped me with have me zero issues for 5 seasons
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Good luck with the rebuild, atlest you can get the guts you want in the new build.
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