Season over....tossed a rod...
 

Running real good Friday night, 73 mph@5500 and BOOM and BANG..... hole in oil pan, looks to me like rod bolt stretched and allowed bearing to spin and take it out... I will know more when I pull it and trear it down, 547CI with H beams.... wanted to redo them anyway.....see ya in 2015!!

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ARGHHH, I hate when that Happens :( I remember one time cruising around at 5,000 and hearing the GKKK, KKKKGNG, GGGGRRKKK and coming to an Abrupt stop, looked over the side and saw the Bilge Pump pumping out this Red Sh*t...I'm thinking what the heck is that??? Well it's the 2 Gallons of Amsoil Synthetic... Very Sad Feeling :( I Feel Your Pain

PS... That cap does look like it burnt before it let go, Your diagnosis seems spot on....

Well you seem pretty happy with these results lol. Sorry to hear man that's always a bummer.

What were you running for rod bolts?

Doesn't sound like ARP

and rods ?

'H Beams' in of themselves mean nothing to me.

Tough luck, but great attitude!!

Over the years of boating you realize they are time bombs, I am nowhere close to easy on my boat, I am always over 4500 lol so fun! until now...

At least with that window in the oil pan you didn't have to wait until you broke it down before you found out.
Feel your pain.

These engines were done for a buddy and I bought the boat to get the engines, he used PBM parts (Erson) and ARP bolts for whole engine according to paperwork, I am in the engines for nothing really so I didn't care, I thought all the parts were eagle until I already had the engines and looked at some things before putting them in Cig, better then the 420's I had, I will be using Eagle rods and crank if that also needs replaced, I will see what crank looks like when I remove it, I expect to replace that too...

the person that built the engines sucked, I redid heads last year to my likings and put the Inconel in that he didn't, I wanted to redo shortblocks anyway, but really was hoping to not break hard parts...

I will make sure they are better then ever with parts I can save and they will be fine... one engine was wearing bearings more then I thought they should when I inspected but that was with lower oil pressure and the wrong bypasses the idiot had in them, I shimmed pumps and put 11lb bypasses in, oil temps never went over 200 and oil always looked good... when I ran Scarab back the tempos were 250+ just cruising so I delt with that right away...its a long story but I got these engines for free in the end, I can afford to make them better now...

here is link to rods they used,

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...73231344,d.cGU

Bummed a little but its the end of August and Ohio weather sucks anyway this year..... guess its time to enjoy he Cobra more haha

The parts in them would not be my first choice but it is what it is and they gained me 10 mph over my 420's..598HP and 660TQ to push the heavy tird...

Did you mean to say you pulled out the 11 lb bypasses and installed the 30 lb ones? I think that is the proper direction to go in. Thought I would point that out to keep anyone from being confused. Good luck with it.

I think your assessment is on in that it broke a rod bolt, which then caused all hell to break loose.
I didn't see it specified in the link, but those rods probably have ARP 8740 bolts, which are the cheaper bolts. Personally, I won't use the 8740 bolts. Even if I use an import set of rods, I still go for the 2000 bolts.

You mentioned using Eagle crank and rods in the rebuild. IMO, there are much better choices out there in the same price range. But that's my opinion. I will not use Eagle's stuff. I know there are quite a few other builders that feel the same way.

Sorry about your troubles. Sounds like you aren't to upset, so that's good. Good luck with it.
Eddie

Yes I'm sorry had it backwards duh yes put 30's in

Thanks yes my best buddy knows his bbc stuff and has procharged 509's making 750-800 hp that live... He's very good builder I will be doing whatever he advises also... Gotta research what's out there

I also don't have endless budget to use best of the best for a old cigarette... I am a blue collar guy that wheels and deals and all that, I have good stuff for what I spent and gotta do the best I can with my financial Abilitys I do my own work that saves me tons... But I take advice and do the closest I can to it !! My last set if engines my buddy helped me with have me zero issues for 5 seasons

Good luck with the rebuild, atlest you can get the guts you want in the new build.

+1,,i hate eagle sh!t,,never had goo luck either..if you want a cheaper crank i like the crower or lunati cranks betterbut if i had no budger my first choice would be a winberg or a bryant crank..Same goes with their rods and like eddie mentioned 200 rod bolts.. b4 you take them apart see if you can stretch the bolts but you will need a rod bolt gauge first..

OP, take a look at Callies Compstar. Scat is also good. You aren't going to the moon, so IMO a $1500 crank is just money wasted. Here's to better bulletproof motors in 2015!

Thanks guys I wonder like even with the pbm stuff in there who actually makes it? Stuff looks nice and is almost the same money as others .... Is there really much difference once it's all machined and checked? That's what I wanna research, I don't need crazy expensive parts as I have a 1985 35 cig I don't need 30,000.00 engines you know? Luckily the recipe parts are there just need to rebuild...

What did you change other than the relief valves to lower the oil temps?

That sucks man! I pulled my motor 2 seasons ago because I wanted the heads checked. Wound up pulling the whole motor down remembering I only saw 10lbs of oil pressure at times. Brass through all the main bearings. But because of really low budget I'll be another season before it runs again! Let us know what you find!

That was it, the 30 lb valves keep the oil from bypassing coolers and filters.... I could run it in dash all day and both engines were 200-220 tops with the old valves I'm scarab when I got it they were 250+ at 4000.... That will wipe engine fast!!

I think you went a tad overboard on crankcase ventilation! :lolhit: Keep us apprised on the new builds.

Lol will do!!

At least one block is stress relieved now, you know, "seasoned".

That sucks man, I feel your pain.....

Yaaaa it happens haha I never made it up there Saturday we will grab a beer soon, I will be around much more now

Yeah, it got messy up there. Too much Polka and schnitzel. We should do that poker run by car this weekend, but the guy never posted to car entry info.

?

I have a wedding or I would probably be on someone's boat lol

Not for nothing, I don't know who your builder is......but if Mr Eddie Young is offering advice, I would listen.

My lunch time Google search found many references to the PBM H-Beams coming from Scat. I do not know if it's true or not but that is what I found thru 'La La Land.' in 10 minutes.

Absolutely, I will upgrade bolts for sure and research if the rods are as good as any other in the price range, the pbm may be a lower end but are they actually a "bad" choice? That's what I gotta see and research

What do you recommend in a budget situation? What's your knowledge of pbm or who makes them? Any clue?

Callies compstar is well worth the relatively small price gap

I have never used any of PBM's parts, so I can't really comment either way. I have used plenty of Scat rods and cranks. They are decent and certainly have their place as stock replacement parts. As with anything, you get what you pay for. As Lil Red mentioned, the Callies Compstar is well worth the small up-charge. They offer rods in both an H beam and an I beam. The H beam rods are a few hundred cheaper and would be more than sufficient for what you are doing. However, you have to think about the future. Do you ever think you may want more power in the future? If so, make sure you plan for it. What I'm saying is don't buy parts good enough for 600 hp when you think there is a chance (however slight it may be) that you may want to make 700 hp in the future. It would make more sense to spend a few hundred more now instead of starting over later. You can't put to good of parts in the bottom end. That is the building block of the entire build, so it makes sense to do it right. You will never regret over building the bottom end.
Eddie

Totally agree, I don't see making more power really them 600 ish the transmissions and drives won't take it I would have a different boat at that point I think the power level I'm at is sufficient for this boat (35 cigarette mistress)

Bummer Dude!! Good luck w the rebuild!!!