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Originally Posted by lil red
(Post 4175764)
Stainless marine are the best replacements from a reliability stand point.
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Originally Posted by Lofty
(Post 4175977)
I've got two pairs of old E tops on our Fountain that have worked flawlessly since new back in the late 90's. I never overheated them, made sure they had the CORRECT water flow when rigged, drain them when not in use and pickle them in the winter. Most people don't do this I know and when you mistreat your equipment it doesn't last as long.
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What about Hardin Marine Hurricane?
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Originally Posted by greg800le
(Post 4176058)
Thanks for the information. I also called CMI and they advise 3 things kill headers in this order. 1. Salt water, 2. Heat, 3. Vibration. That the average life is 12 years (apparently longer on fresh water only boats), and that the port header is the side most likely to fail because of heat - it gets the hottest seawater (last pass through heat exchanger). The new headers do not have the bypass hose which increases water flow by 20%, thus less heat. Now I want easy installation so which ones to get - Merc Headers (which are built by CMI) or the Gen X replacements which may be cheaper and possibly better (or not) Any experience here? thx again
I pressure test every 10-15 hours with this... [ATTACH=CONFIG]528237[/ATTACH] The tester consists of a pressure regulator, 1/4" ball valve and pressure gauge and a bunch of fittings to get it all together. First, I block off the water inlet and outlet with 1" rubber furniture stoppers and hose clamps. I hook one end of the tester to an air compressor and the other end to the 3/4" fitting on the header. Then I open the small blue drain plug and let some air in to purge any remaining water in the headers so they're empty for the test. Next, I set the regulator to 60 psi, open the valve to fill the header with air, close the valve, then monitor the gauge to see if there is any loss in pressure. It really works great and will tell you if you have any leaks before they really bite you. It's easy, safe and you can do it pretty regularly without taking the headers off. It's basically a leakdown test for your headers.. |
Note: The exhaust bolt patterns on the heads are not the same as the standard GM. Precision drill & tap gigs are provided to match the original GM exhaust head bolt patterns. For more information, please consult with our application sales representative. |
Originally Posted by cheech
(Post 4176066)
Mind Sharing how you pickle them? I'm interested.
Salt water left behind in a hot motor is probably the single worse thing you can do to your headers other than overheating them. |
Originally Posted by SB
(Post 4176103)
That page says:
So...you have to drill and tap your Merc/Eddy heads ? |
Originally Posted by SB
(Post 4176103)
So...you have to drill and tap your Merc/Eddy heads ? |
Originally Posted by Sydwayz
(Post 4175858)
CMI gets a bad rap for all the 525 and similar header issues. Then after the headers started to fail, CMI got the bad wrap as they everyone pointed fingers in both directions.
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[http://www.xs-power.com/other-specialty-marine-4.htm TRY THESE PEOPLE I HAVE HAD EMAILED THEM BACK AND FORTH AND THEY WILL BUILD ANYTHING YOU DESIRE
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About 2 1/2yrs ago Dana Marine stated that they were coming out with a conversion bracket for the bolt pattern for $325 per engine. You bolt on the bracket to your 525, the bracket had a standard block bolt pattern that would allow you to mount any header to it. Not sure if it they ever came out with the product or not, but it would definitely be worth the call.
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Originally Posted by bert4332
(Post 4176349)
About 2 1/2yrs ago Dana Marine stated that they were coming out with a conversion bracket for the bolt pattern for $325 per engine. You bolt on the bracket to your 525, the bracket had a standard block bolt pattern that would allow you to mount any header to it. Not sure if it they ever came out with the product or not, but it would definitely be worth the call.
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Originally Posted by littlereggie 572
(Post 4175857)
I sent my cmi headers, (single engine) back to them for
Pressure testing & polishing... What a F'in joke... All they did was piss me off, they passed the pressure test, like 80 bucks or so... Then the polishing? (So they say) Nope Came back looking worse then when I sent them with one of my water tubes bent Long story short over 600 bucks (between shipping & there bill)...a wast of time & money! On a side note the "main" reason I sent them was to be polished! & I told them that! But they wanted to test! I pressure test them myself every year B4 the season starts... Air them up, drop Them in a cut-in "1/2" 55 gallon drum, look for bubbles! I wanted them to look new again Or at least better then when I sent them away I will never deal with them again They have lost a customer (ME)!!! |
I am in the process of gathering parts to put together a 540 and exhaust is the first thing on my list. I was browsing through the classifieds and something jumped out to me. Why is is that the small block exhaust is so much cheaper? example http://www.offshoreonly.com/classifi...o51050-en.html Aren't they pretty much the same size and use the same material. Here is an add for what I believe is the same exhaust only for a big block. (both cmi e-top) http://www.offshoreonly.com/classifi...o31966-en.html
Why is their such a price difference?? My only conclusion is that the big blocks are much more prevalent in powerboats so why not do a little price gouging. The same also holds true for the high performance manifolds as well. |
Originally Posted by JWay
(Post 4179087)
I am in the process of gathering parts to put together a 540 and exhaust is the first thing on my list. I was browsing through the classifieds and something jumped out to me. Why is is that the small block exhaust is so much cheaper? example http://www.offshoreonly.com/classifi...o51050-en.html Aren't they pretty much the same size and use the same material. Here is an add for what I believe is the same exhaust only for a big block. (both cmi e-top) http://www.offshoreonly.com/classifi...o31966-en.html
Why is their such a price difference?? My only conclusion is that the big blocks are much more prevalent in powerboats so why not do a little price gouging. The same also holds true for the high performance manifolds as well. |
Very, very small group of SBC boaters who will even spend 2k on exhaust. Let alone, even buy a performance exhaust. For SBC's, There is cheaper alternatives for same power.
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I just got the new Hardin Marine headers for the 525's and they sure look great
they are heaver than the cmi's ( but i take that as a good thing) i am done buying cmi's |
So am I just extremely lucky or what? 2005 525s with no header issues whatsoever. Boat is 100% freshwater use now since I bought it at 18 mos of age. It had been 100% saltwater use by the original owner for that first year and a half. At 315 hours should you just "replace" headers or wait for a failure? No I have not pressure checked them, not sure exactly how.
Second question is what are the brands that bolt right up? Not interested in an adapter. Thanks, Andy |
if you wait for the failure then your going to be buying a motor and headers , the 525 is a great motor and you can get a lot of hours out of them. at 300 hrs you should be changing the valve springs get new headers and be good for another 300 hrs
you are lucky to have gone this long the hardin marine headers are a replacement |
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Originally Posted by H20 Toie
(Post 4179285)
if you wait for the failure then your going to be buying a motor and headers , the 525 is a great motor and you can get a lot of hours out of them. at 300 hrs you should be changing the valve springs get new headers and be good for another 300 hrs
you are lucky to have gone this long the hardin marine headers are a replacement An easy (and safe) way to pressure check the headers while they're still on the boat is with compressed air. You can use a leakdown tester or make a homemade one consisting of a pressure regulator, 1/4" ball valve and pressure gauge and a bunch of fittings to get it all together. First, block off the water inlet and outlet with 1" rubber furniture stoppers and hose clamps. Then hook one end of the tester to an air compressor and the other end to the 3/4" fitting on the header. Then open the small blue drain plug and let some air in to purge any remaining water in the headers so they're empty for the test. Next, set the regulator to 60 psi, open the valve to fill the header with air, close the valve, then monitor the gauge to see if there is any loss in pressure. It really works great and will tell you if you have any leaks before they really bite you. It's easy, safe and you can do it pretty regularly without taking the headers off. Here's what mine looks like. [ATTACH=CONFIG]528457[/ATTACH] |
They are very expensive I think because of the materials being used. If you are out of budget stay away from those mentioned brand look for after market that the price is half.
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Originally Posted by HyFive578
(Post 4179294)
at 300 hours, you should definitely be doing valve springs and also consider rocker arms. and H20 is right.. if you wait until your headers fail to check, it will be too late.. ask me how I know..
An easy (and safe) way to pressure check the headers while they're still on the boat is with compressed air. You can use a leakdown tester or make a homemade one consisting of a pressure regulator, 1/4" ball valve and pressure gauge and a bunch of fittings to get it all together. First, block off the water inlet and outlet with 1" rubber furniture stoppers and hose clamps. Then hook one end of the tester to an air compressor and the other end to the 3/4" fitting on the header. Then open the small blue drain plug and let some air in to purge any remaining water in the headers so they're empty for the test. Next, set the regulator to 60 psi, open the valve to fill the header with air, close the valve, then monitor the gauge to see if there is any loss in pressure. It really works great and will tell you if you have any leaks before they really bite you. It's easy, safe and you can do it pretty regularly without taking the headers off. Here's what mine looks like. [ATTACH=CONFIG]528457[/ATTACH] |
Originally Posted by 1 MAIDEN AMERICA
(Post 4176056)
You have to charge a lot so that you can afford to keep an employee in the complaint department. Vicious circle I tell you.
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My company produces motorcycle exhausts, we use various grades of titanium, carbon fiber, carbon and stainless steel in the different applications and models we make. After buying our boat with the CMI exhaust and reading about the experiences I looked in depth at creating something along the lines of CMI. At the end of the day, producing a CMI like exhaust would have been a substantial up front investment and not being in the Marine industry a large gamble for my company. The margin would have been OK and pricing would have ended up slightly under CMI. So not a smart business decision for us if we went into production. The reason automotive headers are so much less expensive is demand, supplier competition and shear production volume.
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