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Looks like a poor surface weld to me.
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When we weld them I grind the skeg and case to a V to ensure a deep, strong joint. Even then the cases are large heat sinks and with no preheat require 250-275 amps to get the party started.
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Should have brought it north.......always cheaper to do it right the first time.
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The guy HAD a great reputation,,, and has done several skegs around here.. Keeping my eyes open for a shorty deal. REally kicking myself for not picking up one of the two that went for under 1500 lately.
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Shorty for 1500 damn where at lol
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Originally Posted by BUP
(Post 4191005)
it is best to have skegs rewelded not from straight cuts but cut outs like shark teeth marks ( VVV ) if you have room below the bullet to make V cuts and weld that up to the matched V cuts in the skeg.. It makes for a lot stronger repair plus easier to make the skeg straight when welding the repair..
VVV VVV Not ______ ______ If I lost anyone I can send pics as to what I'm talking about so you can post them up here. . |
Absolutely. Any butt joint thicker than sheet metal needs a bevel.
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I'd be pissd! No heat or penetration. When we welds kegs we also cut a filet in them to fill from inside out. Also I would tell the guy he owes you a prop . I've seen them break and take out prop then take chunk out of cav plate.
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Originally Posted by Eliminatorshane
(Post 4191221)
] . I've seen them break and take out prop then take chunk out of cav plate.
I have piks of that.......... lol |
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