Offshoreonly.com - What is the ceramic coating Wilson Custom Marine uses??

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Try kiss kote. You put it on your bottom and lower it will go faster. You put it on your teeth at a young age and never get a cavity.

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Originally Posted by UR2late (Post 4240071)

Try kiss kote. You put it on your bottom and lower it will go faster. You put it on your teeth at a young age and never get a cavity.

Whoooaaa!

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Originally Posted by offshoredrillin (Post 4240060)

Nano technolgy is the new catch word over tge past few years, even in the coatings industry for ppf gilms and protectants that i use. Avery denidon has nano fusion films as well as Gtechniq ExoV2 nano hydrophobic coatings for paint, the molecular bonding and ceramic properties are widely used but still trade secrets. Even more so the coating just cant be applied without proper prep work. Whatever they use they developed it, let them do it and recoup the research and development money.

Second this. Go to auto geek and do a simple search. I would recommend c2 over evo as far durability but evo looks better

This is not a ceramic coating, but what I have been using on my lower is a product called Sharkhide. You can get it from Eastwood.

It works fairly well. It does tend to wear off the skeg and front of the bullet if you park on any sand bars. If you run in deeper water it shouldn't wear off. I usually polish and re-seal mine once a year.

http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6f04c0dd.jpg

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Originally Posted by 302Sport (Post 4240034)

I'm looking to do lower units, and the problem with them isn't the heat, it is getting something to stay on and not peel off at high speeds. Also, what I'm looking for has a slick feel to the touch, almost like a graphite or Teflon coating. I would also like to stay away from powders, and stay with a sprayable product that can be put on with a standard paint gun. What do you recommend?

Both the Ceramic and Powder are permanent solutions. Unfortunately neither of which is meant as a DIY project. Obviously, to powder coat the drive it has be completely disassembled. To do Ceramic it has to be very close to that.

I haven't seen any testing data on drives in a while but there may be some advantages to using either a satin ceramic or powder in these applications to create a bit of a pebbled surface. Much like they've found speed in creating little air pockets in hull finishes, I think the same applies for pretty much any wet surface. In many cases smooth and shiny can actually create more surface friction than a slightly irregular surface.

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Originally Posted by Revd Up (Post 4240177)

+1 for Sharkhide I have never used it on a boat but have on an aluminum trailer that's been outside for two years and looks like new.

I also use it on my aluminum trailer and diamond plate in the engine compartment . Looks great

The Durafortress was permanent, you can`t get that stuff off with anything, I wish it was still available.

Durafortress coated tab after an entire SEASON: (coated the tab after I had it polished)

http://33outlaw.zenfolio.com/img/s9/...21332457-3.jpg

Raw polished aluminum tab after ONE DAY in the water:

http://33outlaw.zenfolio.com/img/s12...96966096-4.jpg

I`m looking for something similiar now

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Originally Posted by ICDEDPPL (Post 4240232)

maybe give these guys a call,they're probably the major component in your product you were using.

http://www.kisspolymers.com/