What is the ceramic coating Wilson Custom Marine uses??
 

I know it is some type of ceramic coating that is sprayed on, but does anyone know specifically what it is? Somebody said they thought it might be one of Tech Line Coatings products: http://www.techlinecoatings.com/hi-p...ce/default.htm

I don't know what they use, but Airborne in East Hartford (now Central CT Coatings)has some
great stuff. I've used the ceramics on intakes and headers, and the powder on pulleys, chassis components, bell housings etc.

Thanks, they're close enough to atleast check out what they have.

Eastern ct coatings has his own formula for the ceramic coating. Had him do a few turbos for my truck and the hot pipes. Held up ok with heat. He did offer to do it over for free when it discolored.

Is it clear? Looking to polish then coat some lowers...

No it was like the color of the stuff jet hot uses.

sport,do a search on durafortress.it is a clear coating.i had my valve covers done after polishing and a year later they look the same.

#6 lower I would not do with anything other than a anodizing if you insulate it might over heat and kill itself.

only one I've found to get it right the first time is Jet hot.I've tried a few and most burn off rather quickly.

ho does this?sounds interesting

Adam is looking for a ceramic sealant, not an insulator. BTW, I thought you were done with lowers??? :P

Regarding a high-temp ceramic heat management coating I've had okay luck with Jet Hot, but their coatings will discolor with extreme exhaust heat and they are not a good thermal barrier. The only one I've found that holds up extremely well and acts a functional thermal barrier is Swain Tech. It's not real pretty stuff (a thick white rough coating), but it's extremely functional and durable. I trashed everybody else's coating that I tried on the headers of my TT Viper. When a customer of mine (NASA) suggested I try Swain Tech I was skeptical, but to this day that's the only coating I've found that still pretty much looks like it did the day it was done. Not to mention the under-hood temps dropped significantly. You can even brush your hand against the headers and not get burnt... this stuff is the real deal!

http://swaintech.com/race-coatings/r...aust-coatings/


Edit: The ST coating you want to use on exhaust is their "White Lightning (TBC-EX)"

Wilson polishes the lowers and then clear coats them. I've seen so great result lasts yrs.

This one came out fine, worked well and several dyno pulls, street miles, and 1/4 passes later it never flaked. Just turned a brownish color. The parts that weren't subjected to the worst abuse held color fine.

Wilson is using some sort of clear ceramic coating (that looks like regular clear coat) and feels slick like graphite. This is from a write up I found:

"Once the drives are refined, Wilson Custom Marine offers a ceramic coating that will keep the drive finish clean for two years for $250 per drive."

302 you are correct about the coating is clear and really slippery plus when finished it is shiny.. I asked techline coatings and they said its not their product. I would nt be surprise if this coating comes from England.

Don't worry it's not a "Lower" that I would be coating

i had it done in aurora il.i don,t remember the name of the place but dan [icdedppl] told me about it.pm him and he can fill you in.

For anybody interested, it is a "Ceramic Polymer Nanotechnology" process.....

Mike, those guys over there split up, the guy who used to do the Durafortress is gone and no one knows where he went. They didn`t do one of my tabs so now I have one thats shiny and teh other turns dull in a weekend... looking into another coating ..

[ATTACH=CONFIG]534800[/ATTACH]

Don't know what the ceramic coating is that Wilson sprays, but it still looks new after two seasons of running. Just wash with mild soap and dry.

Yup that's what I'm looking for..

Damn , me too!!!

Re: Ceramic Coating for Marine Applications
 

There are several different types of these coatings. It depends what you are trying to cover and for what purpose. Do you have a high or low temp application? Ceramics would be wet sprays but there are also powder clears that work fantastic for low temp apps as well.

What's your definition of high or low temp?

Typically 0-300F would be considered low. High temp could then be broken up into three additional categories of 300F-1000F, 1000F-1500F and 1500F-2000F+.

Jet Hot / Bright Ceramic is not meant for temps above 1000F metal temp or about 1300F -1500F EGT. So therefore its destined to fail in most marine manifold and header applications. You would need a high temp ceramic coating of 2000F plus for most of those.

As for White lightning / plasma sprays, they offer decent thermal protection but look like hell, hold a lot of grease / oil / debri and offer little corrosion protection because of their porosity.

I'm looking to do lower units, and the problem with them isn't the heat, it is getting something to stay on and not peel off at high speeds. Also, what I'm looking for has a slick feel to the touch, almost like a graphite or Teflon coating. I would also like to stay away from powders, and stay with a sprayable product that can be put on with a standard paint gun. What do you recommend?

Guess you should just take them to wilson and have it done, im quite sure if they wanted their trade composites out they would be out. Why cheat an honest reputable company out of profit for something they do by back dooring them?

I don't think it's any kind of proprietary coating that they are using, and from the sounds of the article you can buy it from Wilson Custom Coatings. I called yesterday but they were closed and figured somebody on here might know what it is.

http://www.boatingmag.com/nanotechno...ustom-coatings

http://www.boatingmag.com/how-to/hig...ottom-coatings

Nano technolgy is the new catch word over tge past few years, even in the coatings industry for ppf gilms and protectants that i use. Avery denidon has nano fusion films as well as Gtechniq ExoV2 nano hydrophobic coatings for paint, the molecular bonding and ceramic properties are widely used but still trade secrets. Even more so the coating just cant be applied without proper prep work. Whatever they use they developed it, let them do it and recoup the research and development money.

Try kiss kote. You put it on your bottom and lower it will go faster. You put it on your teeth at a young age and never get a cavity.

Whoooaaa!

Second this. Go to auto geek and do a simple search. I would recommend c2 over evo as far durability but evo looks better

This is not a ceramic coating, but what I have been using on my lower is a product called Sharkhide. You can get it from Eastwood.

It works fairly well. It does tend to wear off the skeg and front of the bullet if you park on any sand bars. If you run in deeper water it shouldn't wear off. I usually polish and re-seal mine once a year.

http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6f04c0dd.jpg

Both the Ceramic and Powder are permanent solutions. Unfortunately neither of which is meant as a DIY project. Obviously, to powder coat the drive it has be completely disassembled. To do Ceramic it has to be very close to that.

I haven't seen any testing data on drives in a while but there may be some advantages to using either a satin ceramic or powder in these applications to create a bit of a pebbled surface. Much like they've found speed in creating little air pockets in hull finishes, I think the same applies for pretty much any wet surface. In many cases smooth and shiny can actually create more surface friction than a slightly irregular surface.

+1 for Sharkhide I have never used it on a boat but have on an aluminum trailer that's been outside for two years and looks like new.

I also use it on my aluminum trailer and diamond plate in the engine compartment . Looks great

The Durafortress was permanent, you can`t get that stuff off with anything, I wish it was still available.

Durafortress coated tab after an entire SEASON: (coated the tab after I had it polished)

http://33outlaw.zenfolio.com/img/s9/...21332457-3.jpg

Raw polished aluminum tab after ONE DAY in the water:

http://33outlaw.zenfolio.com/img/s12...96966096-4.jpg


I`m looking for something similiar now

maybe give these guys a call,they're probably the major component in your product you were using.

http://www.kisspolymers.com/