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More than 65 MPH with a Bravo III?

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More than 65 MPH with a Bravo III?

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Old 08-11-2015, 12:06 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by BUP
Please keep in mind that it can still look like your B III does not leak by looking at the gear oil level in the clear reservoir - the problem is the reservoir can stay full and still leak from the drive a little bit at a time. The reservoir gets very clogged at the bottom forming thick gelled gear oil overtime that will stay full all the time. They need to be cleaned out once a year bare min. Depending on what gear oil you use it can be worse or not taking place at all for the gear lube reservoir bottom gelling up. Just saying
See above. Mine is cleaned yearly at least (had to replace the hose when I bought it because it was clogged so badly). Plus, if something leaks out when running (and quite warm to hot), when it hit the water again, the loss will be made up via the bottle or by pulling in water. And there's no water in mine, I drain into a open pan, it would be seen.

I also run a drive cooler, which helped considerably with the B3 tendency to run hot as h3ll. Maybe the problem you've identified is one of clogged hoses and hot drives - the oil must go somewhere. And a seal isn't going to hold as well as 5 feet of clogged hose.

I'm only saying on mine, which is properly maintained at least yearly, I haven't seen it. You've seen a lot more than I have, so I'm sure it's an issue to keep in mind.

Last edited by apollard; 08-11-2015 at 12:11 PM.
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Old 08-11-2015, 01:38 PM
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I run Amsoil gear lube which does not gunk the bottom of the bottle up like Merc Hi Perf. I let my drive drain overnight when I change gear lube and the reservoir always drains completely so no plugged lines here. I know the prop shaft seals are an issue on Bravo III's. I had a buddy that had one bad from new. I've yet to experience it though on 3 different Bravo III boats with a combined 1,000 + hours between them. Good point though BUP on keeping those reservoirs clean.

Edit - I too run a drive cooler so keeping them cool might also help with the issue.
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Old 08-11-2015, 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by boating4me
S i g h ; ; Again.... 502 EFI warmed to 500 HP, Billet tabs (12"x17") outboard steering, the motor mounts are bolted through the stringer, the interior was upgraded with stand up bolsters, the rear has deep seats and oh-sh$t bars (Billet off shore controls to be installed very soon).

I am trying to replicate a "know boat" identical to mine that is doing 71MPH (GPS) with 4 souls on board and loaded for the day in less than perfect water. He has 480 HP and B1 with a 24P prop that has been worked and has a far amount of a cup to it (454 carb motor that is all stock except for a pro charger). I had a Baja 232 with a 496 and XR1 drive,that was doing 70MPH, this guys Chaparral was faster, had more room was MUCH more comfortable and important to a boater on the mighty Colombia river unlike the Baja the deck was safe to walk out on for anchoring in rough water. I sold the Baja and started looking for this Chaparral.

I know that my boat is not the most performance minded boat in the world, However, it is a hand made high quality boat and "this" model was designed to be a high performance boat (it came from the factory with 502) and I am not looking to change the universe, making a 4800 pound boat go 70MPH on 500 HP does not require voodoo

I have the information I need about gear ratios, now I need guidance on which lower unit... What is a swept back (and why would I want it)? I currently have an "oiler" upper, what do I need to know about getting a lower that is computable with it?
The swept back Bravo I came out around 2005. It is a change to the upper only. They made improvements to help with shift quality. The lowers are still the same. If you get just a lower it is a non-issue. If you get a complete drive then it still should not be an issue as long as you don't get an XR drive where you can run into issues with the drive shaft and gimbal bearing. BUP would know more about this.
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Old 08-11-2015, 02:41 PM
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Are you saying you can run an oiler upper with a non oiler lower?
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Old 08-11-2015, 05:47 PM
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Yea, what Glenamy asked...
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Old 08-11-2015, 05:51 PM
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What happened to your performance after the swap..... (I am a little scared to get rid of the B3 before trying B1)
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Old 08-11-2015, 05:58 PM
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I'll buy the 3 off ya, we run 90 with them all day long.
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Old 08-11-2015, 06:07 PM
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Buy one at a good price and keep the 3. You can use the 3 for longer boating trips (economy) or for tubing, etc. Put the 1 on when you are in the performance mode.
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Old 08-11-2015, 06:12 PM
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702 228-2628 if you need anything or just want to sell the lower. I would wait till you try out the one and make sure you like it. But I would never make that switch.
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Old 08-11-2015, 10:41 PM
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Man we are all getting away from people on people interaction. I have a "house" 1.5 b1 with a cookie cutter 3 blade 23 been on a few b3 cruisers just bacause. Tell your new buddy he needs to yank his b1 anyway cause its time to reach up in there for annual colonoscopy anyways .bell gaskets are cheap. And you can offer your b3 on his just to see what it will do. Blackhawk props wont fly on a b3. But experimenting with alternate front -rear sizes might get you into the high 70's that the grey dps reach.smaller outboard prop. But like the blackhawk ,you now may have to time them .
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