Can a couple of you guys post pictures of your setups for pressure testing headers......

I rigged up something eith my garden hose last year which conclusively showed them leaking but i alsoI sent them back to CMI to test and fix. Just trying to avoid that 800 bucks again

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I pressure test my headers by sealing them up, submerging them in a big rubbermaid tub full of water and then pressurizing them with compressed air at 60-65 psi which is twice the normal water pressure the headers will normally see. You have to make sure the headers are completely submerged such that the primaries are completely filled and if you have leaks ANYWHERE, you will see bubbles rise to the surface. I have caught two collector flange leaks and a number of external pinhole leaks this way.

I use 1" rubber furniture feet tips and hose clamps to seal the jumper hose bung and the water distribution rail. I use a 3/4" NPT to 1/2" NPT reducer bushing and a 1/2" NPT x -08, 90-degree fitting to connect my air hose to the 3/4" port on the distribution rail.

You slowly increase pressure to 65 psi and watch for bubbles in the water. You want to slowly increase pressure and also be sure those stoppers are secure. I've had one cut loose under pressure and it launched about 20 feet in the air carrying a hose clamp with it.

Here's the setup in action. This was an external pinhole leak found on the shoulder of the weld....

https://youtu.be/EUJ5YAwzwGg

I was just testing a set of stainless marine manifolds. I brought my jump pack with a compressor built into it. I take and plug any outlet on the water side with pipe dope and 3/4" brass plugs. Then I have a fitting with a gauge and a Schrader valve going to a 3/4" brass pipe. Usually test up to 50 psi and use a soapy water solution on all my plugs and fittings to verify no leaks. If they don't leak for 15 minutes I say they are good. I bit the manifoldsame up to 10 psi and the guy who was trying to sell them today it was to much and he didn't want them to blow apart. At that point I just walked away. Any manifold should be able to hold 50-75 psi without an issue. Imo.

I like that setup Hyfive. I think that will be my method.....

Do you just use your compressor to moderate pressure or do you have a second regulator on it?

I use an inline regulator because the building where my boat is located has "shop air", but also mainly for convenience. I have a small ball valve connected to the output side of my inline regulator as well so I can gradually pressurize the header.

Thanks for the info guys. I am overdue for testing mine. Lots easier than paying CMI to do it.

I wish somebody who has been there and done that would put together a kit for us dumbasses and sell it for a decent profit and they would sell. Or make a list of the exact products you need to complete the setup with pics and complete instructions. That could easily sell for 20 or 40 dollars I bet.

I pretty much spelled out what you need in my first post.

(2) 1" rubber leg tips like these :

http://www.acehardware.com/product/i...pla=pla_998134

(2) SS hose clamps

(1) 3/4" NPT to 1/2" NPT reducer bushing

(1) 1/2" NPT x -08 AN elbow

(1) -08 AN push on hose end

5 - 6 feet of 1/2" ID rubber marine fuel hose (I like fuel hose for its pressure resistance)

- push on hose end / compression fitting to connect hose to compressor

- inline regulator with either 1/4" NPT or 3/8" NPT ball valve depending on what size compressor hose you are using..

- REALLY big rubbermaid container...LOL



use as directed...

THANK YOU! You are DA MAN today Brother!

OMC and Volvo 1990's model apps have a rubber cap on the end of their exhaust water rails as these are the best to use for exhaust manifold and header testing. I have been pressure testing exhaust systems for almost 20 years for all the OEMs and aftermarket systems. cast iron, SS, & aluminum versions.

The best thing you can do is heat the manifold and or exhaust header while pressure testing them. You can use a paint stripper gun or a hair dryer on hot setting plus use a hand held temp gun to see what the temps are of the header or manifold. You are trying to simulate engine running temp conditions & heat soak. Metal expands and contracts form different heating values hence thats why you heat them for testing and let cool to see if a leak really happens during the whole process even cool down.

I also use the same pressure tester that we test outdrives for leaks.

Link below for the exhaust rail caps - you can get 2 different sizes. If anyone needs them let me know. These rubber caps are made for the exhaust manifolds water rail that uses a hose clamp. I also have used a smoke machine to test headers with air pressure as well.

. http://www.marineengineparts.com/med.../8/18-0549.jpg