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Not to mention tbe slow, boring ride home on 1 engine when it fails and wondering if the other one will last long enough to get back to the lift / trailer.
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Originally Posted by flatlanderbill
(Post 4396802)
Not to mention tbe slow, boring ride home on 1 engine when it fails and wondering if the other one will last long enough to get back to the lift / trailer.
Drives and motors were serviced before it was put up but will probably change the oil anyway. It has 7.4 Mags with 320 hours.:flag: (How come there is no thumbs up smiley face?). Thanks for the advice. |
Originally Posted by Bawana
(Post 4396783)
3 pointstar brings up a good point. So let me add that anytime you replace an impeller you should back flush your system. Even if all the impeller parts are there, other stuff can and does get caught in the coolers. I flush them by filling up the system with water, and with the hose off the sea pump, I use a special fitting I made, and blow about 80psi air through the system, forcing the water and air out. I do this a couple of times.
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I would run the boat a day or 2 to see if there's other things to put on the list. Just go run it local
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Your will have to change your title to Bajablown if you don't change them. I just ran 44 miles at 82 mph with fresh impellers in 48* air temp. Change your impellers. Cheap insurance. Good luck if you don't!
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One tow would probably cover the cost of replacing the impellers....Once you puke the impellers, keep the wallet open for the extra work to clear the coolers... assuming the tech's get all the shards out and that is the end of the cooling problem.
Even if they do not disintegrate, after sitting for 2+ years, they will have taken a set shape and are no longer efficient = new impellers are required.... change them out and reset the clock back to "0" hours and go boating w/o worry! |
Heading to the Catalina Wine Mixer?
Being that is a salt water run, I would change the impellers, the anodes, the batteries, the gimbals, the props, the prop nuts, the trim tabs, the rub rail and all the deck hardware just to be on the safe side! :D https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mfhT2pPXqBA |
2 pages over $60 worth of parts?
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Originally Posted by Bawana
(Post 4396787)
At the end that connects to your cross over/thermostat housing. But make sure the other end (connecting to the sea pump) is disconnected. And by putting water in the system at the end that connects to the cross over/thermostat, with the air will unplug the honeycombs in the coolers. I made a 1.25 fitting with a on/off valve with an air chuck fitting that I just hose clamp into the end.
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Originally Posted by tmmii
(Post 4396903)
2 pages over $60 worth of parts?
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