double post

Power steering pulley:

The engines did not have power steering pumps on them. There was no good place to use one of the belts that were already on the engine so I had to add a pulley to one of the idlers. I found a spare pulley (off a merc 1350?) . I lathed a stepped locator bushing to center the pulley, and drilled the bolt pattern into the pulley.

Power steering pump:

I had to make a bracket to mount the aftermarket power steering pump. It needed a slot for tension adjustment, ect.
I mounted the power steering pump low on the engine because it needs to be gravity fed from the reservoir and I already had the reservoir mounted at the front of the engine compartment pretty low.

AN to o-ring:

When its midnight on a friday night and you need two -8AN to -10 O-ring fittings and you dont have them but you do have a -8AN union and a -10AN union you make what you need.

The AN fittings and o-ring fittings are the same size and thread pitch.

You take the -10 union and lathe the bevel off the end and make it the length the oring fitting would be. Then take the 8 and 10 unions and cut them in half. Lathe the cut center section flat. Then weld them together. Here is a before and after pic of the -8AN and -10AN union and the -8AN to -10 O-ring addapters.

God I love this thread.:cool-smiley-011:

^^^ pass the pipe! I love ❤️ this also.

^^^^^^^ Wrong Mike.

Push on hose:

When you do not want to have any push on hose fittings in your boat because they can come off and sink the boat but the engine has one that you cannot easily get rid of what do you do?

You make a push-on to AN fitting and use 500 psi flame resistant hose with t-bolt clamps and safety wire it together. I put the studs on the fitting to make a bracket that would bolt to the engine but after I tightened the t-bolt clamps you could not get the fitting to move at all so it would probably be fine but I safety wired it just in case.

The thickness in the boat is due to the balsa core. The boat is made with several layers of "glass" then a core then more layers of "glass" the thickness of the glass may only be 1/16" to 1/4" but the core can be from 1/2" to 2" thick. The core spreads the glass apart and acts like an I beam. The core makes using the same amount of layers of glass a lot stiffer then if the glass was all together and not spread apart. The tunnel wall had 1.5" thick core so we took it away and added 8 layers of Carbon Fiber a few layers of glass and two layers of Kevlar. All that adds up to less then a 1/4" so we had a net gain of about 1.3". The strength will technically be stronger then with a core because there is more layers of material then the inside of the tunnel wall would have had, it would technically not be as stiff if it was on a bigger area but this small of a span it will be plenty stiff.


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When you tightened the engine mounts, how many foot pounds did you use?

Just one.....

.When hand pounds are just not enough and you have to switch to foot pounds.