kidturbo

The sequential "gas" setups have been done a multitude of ways over the past few decades. True left bank right bank splits, two into single manifold, and my personal favorite the Nissan Z I believe used a cross over feedback loop where right side turbo fed the left side intake and left fed right. That was a pretty successful setup. All those were wategated setups.

Now days everything OEM is computer controlled with cool setups like the Ecoboost where its basically a compound setup and they electronically bypass the smaller turbo after the big one gets lit. But as Tyson can tell you there is no magic setup in boats, and what ever looks great on paper probably doesn't pan out well in the real world. I tend to follow the German and Italian builders advances, and in diesel work, VW Audi rules the race circuits. However Bugatti's 1000+hp quad turbo is my personal fav a present time.

To Turbom's question, as Tyson stated above true twins, especially gated can be a tricky setup to get synced. Theory is if you dump both into a single intake, match your gate pressures, then they will work it out between themselves. This is typically what 99% of performance engine builders go with right now. However these new variable nozzle setups offer better potential and much wider power range than gated setups. When they are tuned and working correctly... It's just uncommon to do twin VNT on big HP diesels cause everyone is typically doing WOT pulls or runs. Big NOS lit singles or old reliable compounds get that job done best.

End of my 2 cents. Back Tyson's amazing CNC pics.

Unlimited jd

iTrader: (5)

What about separate vgt controllers to eliminate the need of such an expensive ecm? When I built my duramax Curtis halverson (sp?) was building land speed duramax engines at over 1500hp and holding then at peak hp on the dyno for over 2 hours at a time. Maybe he will have some insight? His company was diesel performance research and he made the rods that Howard's was marketing for the dmax. I had him do my short block. When it was done on a mild tune (I wrote all my own tunes) it made 850 and 1380 to the wheels. But my drive pressure was way to high for any type of endurance run.

BigSilverCat

Speaking of cnc pics.... I have not added anything in a few days because I had to go home and machine a few things for the boat and some stuff for friends boats. This is not related to my thread but it is boating related so I will put it on here. This is a plate for the front of a cigarette hatch. I made them a few different patterns to see what they want. We left a recess around the cigarette to fill with paint.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]553596[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]553597[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]553598[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]553599[/ATTACH]

BigSilverCat

And I had to machine this rudder for ron's 36 canopy skater. Started out with a big piece of billet stainless.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]553600[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]553601[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]553602[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]553603[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]553604[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]553605[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]553606[/ATTACH]

BigSilverCat

Back to our regularly scheduled programming,
I also machined some seat brackets and spacers with lightening pockets and holes for my boat. The spacers will be glued with 5200 to the bulk head and through bolted, then the seat bracket will bolt to it. That gives me the ability to take the seats out from the cockpit by myself. When I take the seats out it will give me places to bolt other things like a storage box for safety gear on long runs, ect. And most stuff on the boat like the standoff's for the drives, steering, ect. I have through bolted and 5200 to the boat and they will be solid and never come off and then I bolt something to them so it is metal to metal. That way I do not have to go around and retighten stuff as often do to the compression over time of the bulkheads

[ATTACH=CONFIG]553607[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]553608[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]553609[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]553610[/ATTACH]

NASCAT

Nice looking CNC work. I'm sure it comes easy to you owning your own precision machine shop but I find the overall start to finish or as we say "cradle to grave" process fascinating.

mxz

You do some fine looking work sir..................

Quinlan

iTrader: (1)

I will buy what they don't use! Look good on the Man cave wall.

BigSilverCat

Lifting eye brackets. I am using the Accon retractable extra large lifting eyes. Here we are making the bracket that will hold it to the transom. On really light boats you can just bolt it through the deck with a rod down to a stringer but most Skaters they build a bracket to bolt it to the transom. Without the bracket it may not rip out the top but the force pulling the two lifting eyes together towards a single lifting point can buckle the deck. Drilling the holes through the deck and cutting the cross out and fiberglass it so it will not rot.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]553728[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]553729[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]553730[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]553731[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]553732[/ATTACH]

BigSilverCat

I started questioning Mike (main rigger at Skater) how strong his welds are on the bracket. He said they have never had one break, that his weld is stronger then the aluminum. But it made him question the welds so he welded a few pieces together and put them in the press and tried to break them. I guess he was right the weld did not break but bent the piece of aluminum. I probably would have lost a bet on that one.

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