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Anchor
I did the same thing as Tom A, I put in an old life vest on the bottom of the locker for padding in the anchor locker. I use the "Digger Anchor", it holds my 38 Donzi really well, and specifically says to not use a chain, just line to the anchor. just google digger anchor. good luck.
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I use a Danforth/Fluke style anchor that I picked up at a LOTO Walmart several years ago. http://www.walmart.com/ip/Greenfield...Black/32929658
It has a thick PVC coating to prevent scratches. I don't use a chain. Works very well and pretty cheap. |
Originally Posted by Griff
(Post 4431170)
I use a Danforth/Fluke style anchor that I picked up at a LOTO Walmart several years ago. http://www.walmart.com/ip/Greenfield...Black/32929658
It has a thick PVC coating to prevent scratches. I don't use a chain. Works very well and pretty cheap. Last year someone (ehm..wife) put a scratch in the paint when pulling the anchor. Luckily it buffed out. I was thinking of Plastic Dipping the ends. |
Originally Posted by offshorexcursion
(Post 4430900)
Depends on what type of bottom your anchoring in
Chain is ONLY for abrasion against sharp objects on the bottom Letting out enough SCOPE is what sets and holds the anchor They make protected anchor bags also for storage One option for easier handling is an aluminum anchor like a fortress, with only line and at least 100', and a second set up for the stern with at least 50' of line. Drop the front over the side, walk the line up to the bow, back up loosely letting out about 100' of line, throw the stern out, now SET the bow anchor, once hooked pull forward pulling back in maybe 50' of line, now SET the stern anchor. Keep both lines taughnt so they don't drag on the bottom. (Legth of line depends on size of boat, more line for larger boat, more line also for more scope for easier setting, more line obviously for deeper water) I disagree the chain is ONLY for abrasion. The heavy chain helps set the anchor by lowering it to the ground while it`s being dragged.Also helps keep it set with less scope out . Letting out 100' that wouldn`t work at any beach I`ve been at , first with your method I`be be 50' away from the beach and secondly 50' of line in front? When I have 30' I have to watch it cause some jerk is always running over it. |
Originally Posted by ICDEDPPL
(Post 4431247)
I disagree the chain is ONLY for abrasion.
The heavy chain helps set the anchor by lowering it to the ground while it`s being dragged.Also helps keep it set with less scope out . Letting out 100' that wouldn`t work at any beach I`ve been at , first with your method I`be be 50' away from the beach and secondly 50' of line in front? When I have 30' I have to watch it cause some jerk is always running over it. That's one of the reasons we use the box anchor. There rule of thumb is 3:1 scope vs traditional anchor's 7:1. thus for 10ft water depth, you should use 30ft of line. for 20ft use 60, and so on. If your worried about someone running over your anchor line, use a anchor buoy so they know there's a line there. |
JZ, I run a Box Anchor for ALL the boating I do in our area. The ONLY time it didn't work well was in Mattawoman Creek when it was 3' thick with hydrilla everywhere. **Note, NO ONE was able to get an anchor to stick that weekend, no matter what type they had. We just rafted in the middle of the cove and drifted.
OLD thread, but I still do the exact same thing to this day: http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/g...answering.html **but I keep the dufflebag in a cabin compartment now, not under the backseat. |
Large Box Anchor all the way.
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Originally Posted by underpsi68
(Post 4430868)
Exactly what I do
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Box anchor all the way.
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Love my box anchor. aka "Da Bear Trap"
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