The Brand New 2017 - 29 BUILD Follow Along
For those who do not know and for those who want to follow along and for those a brand new one can be built for you as well.
In a joint effort with custom boat builder Lavercraft and myself, we will be taking the boat on tour for the 2017 season. Follow along and click on the all the pics, http://www.laveycraft.com/construction-of-29-nuera |
Are there any updates being made to the boat? Outboard option? Very cool project.
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We have talked about that as well - UD ( Uncle Dave ) and Chris C. will make that decision very soon. The focus right at this moment is the 29 and with big power. We have alot to post up here and plan on reporting all of it. A BIG THANKS FOR ALL WHO FOLLOW THIS and all QUESTIONS ARE WELCOMED.
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Very cool, I love build threads! Thanks for taking us along.
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Way cool!!!
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how about a single small block ls turbo
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Take another shot at a canopy SVL !!!! Nothing better for sales than with a proven race boat.
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nice! the multi color gelcoat process is fascinating and sooo little room for error. Great pics
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This boat or the 28 EVO with a couple of 400Rs could jump start the affordable performance boat segment again. Fingers crossed.
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The 29 is a big boat its actually 30.6 ft with a full 8.6 ft beam. A couple of 400 R's is not cheap retail for 2 of them is close to 70 K,
Think about what you could build for an I/O with 70 grand. Way more than 800 hp. We are doing exactly that. 665 CID. Our engine plans has changed from the original plan. Still an I/O. Alot more info on the engine build to come. Parts have been ordered on that end. |
That will scoot with that motivation!
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Who do you have building the power? And any thought to doing an Arneson set-up?
From what I have read on here it is a wash cost wise vs. the SCX. Would be different.... |
Originally Posted by BUP
(Post 4468333)
The 29 is a big boat its actually 30.6 ft with a full 8.6 ft beam. A couple of 400 R's is not cheap retail for 2 of them is close to 70 K,
Think about what you could build for an I/O with 70 grand. Way more than 800 hp. We are doing exactly that. 665 CID. Our engine plans has changed from the original plan. Still an I/O. Alot more info on the engine build to come. Parts have been ordered on that end. |
what material for the transom -bulkhead and stringers are you using ?
unless it's a top secret build how many layers in the hull, hull sides and deck? what material and resin ? am i seeing this right? you put a laveycraft decal on the mold then sprayed gel over it. hope you keep the process updated w/ plenty of pics |
Very cool, subscribed! :cool:
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Have always liked those hulls , thinking twin LS7 's around 600 hp running with bravo's would be fast and affordable
Good luck with your project ........looks like a winner |
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Originally Posted by outonsafari
(Post 4469103)
what material for the transom -bulkhead and stringers are you using ?
unless it's a top secret build how many layers in the hull, hull sides and deck? what material and resin ? am i seeing this right? you put a laveycraft decal on the mold then sprayed gel over it. hope you keep the process updated w/ plenty of pics As to the decal in the mold, it didnt work like that. The decal served as a guide and the actual letters were taped out with immense care and attention to detail then the decal was removed and gelcoat shot in. UD |
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Chris is tuning up the vacuum machine for the bagging process.
This is an interesting device that looks a lot for the world like a three rotor wankel engine. It runs on 240 4(?) phase and generates a lot of heat, so it has to be water cooled during its run cycle you can see the water tank above Chris's head. It creates immense vacuum that is stored up in series of atmosphere tanks (there are more storage vessel used than shown but see the two big round things in pict 2) for immediate access during the process. Valving allows the team to slam the vacuum into the core, as well as back it off to make adjustments to any core material that may be displaced when the vacuum hits. UD |
Originally Posted by midwest272
(Post 4469253)
Have always liked those hulls , thinking twin LS7 's around 600 hp running with bravo's would be fast and affordable
Good luck with your project ........looks like a winner |
Prepping for Vac Bag...
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Yeah that 29 with twin 600's was a wicked beautiful machine.
The core material (balsa) is cut like puzzle pieces on the band saw. Then it gets fitted and laid out on a dry run and marked both numerically and directionally per piece - so it can be rapidly assembled. UD |
Originally Posted by midwest272
(Post 4469253)
Have always liked those hulls , thinking twin LS7 's around 600 hp running with bravo's would be fast and affordable
Good luck with your project ........looks like a winner |
Originally Posted by BUP
(Post 4468333)
We are doing exactly that. 665 CID. Our engine plans has changed from the original plan. Still an I/O.
Alot more info on the engine build to come. Parts have been ordered on that end. Drive ? |
Good luck very nice project. What drive will you be using
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From Saturdays vacuum bagging session.
Very laborious intense process. Seeing and doing it firsthand - Now I know why its a differentiator in the marketplace. On the drive question (We're hoping Bup will go SCX) UD https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ID95JyOrVOY |
The IMCO SCX is one of the drives being looked at for the build. We all KNOW the Merc bravo XR is totally out of the MIX for this app.
As far as Mark at Throttles Performance what names he goes by on other sites I have no idea. But I do not think its 900 hp for those. I will bring up - yes it is him up here on OSO as screen name 900 hp. He is involved in alot other performance apps & projects than you would even know about. I am in very good hands here having Mark @ Throttles Performance all over this engine build plus does anyone really think that I am not smart enough on the marine side to know better who could tackle a huge powerhouse marine build ?? Come on now, my experience on the marine side is vastly deep, not to pat myself on the back but it is what it is . Just saying. Not only Mark is the engine builder for this project but he has become a great friend on top of. Believe me when I say this, Mark is treating the complete build like he was building it for himself and his mother, if that tells you anything as it has for me. |
Following this build on the forums, looking forward to seeing it out of the mold. Always been a big Lavey fan, Chris's attention to detail is second to none.
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I think this would be a very appropriate word phrase to use - To catch everyone ( UP TO SPEED ) on the 29 Build process.
CONTINUE TO FOLLOW ALONG with the video below. Please feel free to leave comments and on the YouTube Video. Thanks. Cool video to say the least. I like it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VcLY7x7EvTE |
Subscribed!
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Originally Posted by Uncle Dave
(Post 4469835)
The core material (balsa) is cut like puzzle pieces on the band saw.
Then it gets fitted and laid out on a dry run and marked both numerically and directionally per piece - so it can be rapidly assembled. UD Keep up the good work and pictures! |
Originally Posted by 36Tango
(Post 4479277)
Thanks for taking us along with this build! I do not even pretend to know, but why use wood in the hull? I had thought that many boats are "woodless" so that rot is less of a problem. Like I say, I do not know a thing about boat building, so this may very well be the norm.
Keep up the good work and pictures! In many instances "wood" is still the very best material to use regardless of what the material cost might be - In that end grain balsa is "wood" If you go to the build site on the laveycraft home page you can see a listing of core material strength and compare balsa to some other available materials in terms of tensile strength, shear and shear modulus, the manmade products aren't even close. Turns out its pretty hard to beat mother nature. This is is why companies like Skater and DCB still use and insist on Balsa as a core material. The vac bag process pulls the resin through the core material that is essentially a group of cubes on a scrim backing- material basically encasing it fully so that any intrusion that may occur is completely localized to that one particular cube shaped piece that is surrounded on all sides with fiberglass. Where wood doesn't work well and you don't want it is on the floor on or in the interior pieces The 2750 up the cockpits are all fully linered and 2 pieces all fiberglass with the dash assembly inserted - any water that gets inside drains to the bilge so there is no wood to rot. The gunwhale area is all fiberglass and inserted into the mold when the halves are joined making the gunwale effectively 1 pice and completely impervious to any water intrusion. Most boats use a wooden and cloth "insert" frame type interior, that loosens up and with the repeated pounding, and rots after time and must be replaced. Because all the seating surfaces except the driver and passenger seats are molded into the hull the " interior" is just a small cushion sitting on fiberglass pedestal and a "ring" around the gunwhale opening. As to the buckets being secure there is an aluminum piece thats inserted between the 2 halves thats tapped and drilled- you can hang the boat upside down from the seats an they won't come off. UD |
Looks great - when is it getting popped from the mold? Also are you doing any updates to the interior and instruments? How about a wind deflector of any kind? It may not be needed in Havasu but there are lots of places this boat could work that get cold!
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The preference is for the halves will stay in mold as long as we can keep them there - For BUPS rig well keep them in until its time to join or we have to pull to put in the rail.
Guess would be another week or two the boat will basically be done so the unveiling is soon. Standard interior, don't know what bups got in mind for gauges....John? We've a done a bunch of aero marines, but he's going naked with the molded in one. I go back and forth on wanting one myself as even in so cal the ocean is cold, and the wife *****es up a storm, then when I get to the desert Im happy. I don't like replacing the lexan after 10 years, but the canopy boats and big screen are pretty nice for sure. UD |
Auto Meter marine carbon fiber look background or possible LED digital screen / readouts for the helm gauge package.
I have to make a trip out very soon to decide on a lot of other stuff. Will need , bow cleat, bow lite, headliner and Bolster pedestals mounted before the top cap goes on for good. Really wanted the DANA billet pedestals and in Blue. I know Lavey bonds the top to the hull as well so I want to make sure the problem areas - hard to get to installs get installed before that takes place. 2 things I hate to do on boats, one is fiberglass work and the second is cut the transom hole per OEM guidelines. Always hated cutting the hole for the transom assembly and making sure I am DEAD on with the X dimension. For some reason the older I get the more I avoid that process. IBEX is coming up as I know as always, will run into something new that would be good or better to install whatever that might be from A - Z. Maybe a gauge package, Bolster seats or whatever. |
At first I was going to build the engine a 540 in the 650 hp range, then we decided to change all the plans and up the numbers so now, Throttles Performance in Fargo ND is building the brand new 665 CID engine from the ground up and all the custom EFI set up.. Keeps tabs on all of that. Very interesting to say the least on that alone -
Lets see the piston, rings and cam are all in - the block is in and getting machined, the heads are in and getting ported plus a few other things are in. Anyways Mark D. at Throttles Performance is doing a great job - a couple of video's of some horsepower. At some point down the road down Mark will update all the engine building process. Just thought I would update the progress currently. Throttle's Performance, Mark D. is at the end of the video below. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M9d3fTYAIJ4 www.laveycraft.com |
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And another Engine Master's build from Mark.. Talk about a cool factor build. One of the reasons, I asked and I asked and I asked him to do the build.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vP2fdX-QZEU www.laveycraft.com |
Think long and hard about the digital, the constantly changing #'s drive my eyes/brain nutz. Too much going on.
In fact. I'm simple.....One of my cars that took a lot of watching the road, I positioned the guages so that the red pointers would point straight up during normal operating conditions. No gauge searching for my eyes. That is my IMHO. I understand others like them. |
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Garmin combined with Smartcraft and you can digitally display anolog looking gauges on the screen. My fave.
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I split my boat between analog and digital which is easier with a single than a dual on a real estate basis.
Most current nav systems if driven by an nmea 2000 engine control system can create digital gauges. UD |
Originally Posted by SB
(Post 4486583)
Think long and hard about the digital, the constantly changing #'s drive my eyes/brain nutz. Too much going on.
In fact. I'm simple.....One of my cars that took a lot of watching the road, I positioned the guages so that the red pointers would point straight up during normal operating conditions. No gauge searching for my eyes. That is my IMHO. I understand others like them. That being said, I like the racepak screens because you can set limits for each parameter at various rpm ranges which will light up the warning lights. So as long as your warning lights aren't on, you're good to go. Lots of flexibility and functionality in a small package to save dash space. Also you can adjust the refresh rate and sensitivity so the rapidly changing numbers don't drive you nuts going between 49-51psi lol. Great build guys! |
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