The GLM pdf is just like the Merc one which I installed (Another GLM design rip off). The file shows most how it is installed. The plastic tube is inserted, the rubber bushing goes over the tube, then the metal plate is used with bolts to press the bushing into the housing from the engine side. Once pressed in, the plate is removed and the hose fitting (CP style or plastic Merc) and gasket and attached. The bell housing end is install with a new ferrule and tool.

The ferrule is removed with anything you can get it out with, and is replaced with the regular hose. Normally it only installs the ferrule and is not used to remove, because the ferrule is compressed and will not fit into the grooves again.

The CP hose is a different design and I have not installed one of them yet. Does look like it uses the same original rubber hose but a different adapter to hold in place

Ok so in your opinion whose and what part numbers do I need to get in addition to that CP piece so I can run AN hose to it if I choose? Need to be flexible as im not sure if AN or slip hose will work best with hwoever my strainer, two stage seapump situation ends up

I like the Merc version better 32-8M0090859. it can be a bit harder to install but there should not be anything to swell up and cause issues later. If it swells at all it should just seal tighter. If the lower section of the hose ever needs to be changed again, it would be easier because only need to replace the lower section and not the upper.

BAM posted link to part in post 50

Can I source everythign but the waternecks indiviually cheaper sine Im just going to toss those? I was going to replace gimbal bearings and whatever else I should while Im there I think i saw a transom kit or something that had that hose, or maybe similar but not redesign?

Not that I'm aware of, might be able to find the GLM cheaper

So three different solutions to the inlet hose crustyiness

CP Performance - HOSE Kit Mercruiser 32-8M0090859

CP Performance - Bravo Water Inlet Repair Kit

http://www.glmmarine.com/pdf/Instru-47230.pdf

GLM Im thinking is cheaper Merc part number... so whats better the Merc solution (rubber hose mated to hard plastic) or CPs (all rubber hose)? It looks like the CP part still uses that 4 prong ferrule to tighten the hose up, Merc part doesnt?


even though Im tossing the plastic neck and using CPs billet NPT threaded piece, no better way to get the other parts?

I just stumbled across this thread. I ditched the 454 in my Checkmate 253 and installed a 408ci LS. I'd say you are pretty close on your 1000lbs weight saving estimate. My 454 (carb'd 310hp) weighed just over 1100lbs, fully dressed. When we dropped in the LS, we did it on the scales at my buddy's farm. I dropped 620lbs. This was with an aluminum LS2 block. Last year I rebuilt the engine into an iron block in preparation for possible boost and to add a little more weight back into the stern of the boat. The iron block weighed 96lbs more than the aluminum block. So, as of now I have a 520lbs weight saving out of the stern. The boat now handles a million times better than it did with the big block, especially in rough water. I have zero problem with balance and the thing carries the bow better than it did before.

I'm looking forward to seeing this thing come together. You're gonna love it!!!

If I have this right you say the iron block LS is only 96LBs more then the Aluminum? I have been curious about this as I have twin BBC in a 7200LB dry boat. If I can drop even 500LBs per motor that would be huge. But I want to run closed cooling no mater what as I am in salt, so a aluminum with closed cooling has been what I am thinking. If I can stay with the same or a little more HP/TQ as my HP500EFI motors it would be good.

Was the 408ci, carb, or injected?

Mine is carb'd. I did that to just keep it simple and the fact that I have never been left stranded by a carb'd motor. What's funny is, I had the same power goals as you. Basically, I wanted build something equal to or more powerful than a hp500 for the same money and it weigh less. I think I did it, as my motor is pretty simple and makes 577hp. It also starts making 500lb-ft at 3200 rpms and doesn't drop below 500lb-ft until it hits about 6000rpm. Right now I am running a set of CNC ported stock 317 heads, which is my choking point. After this season I am going to upgrade to a set of Trick Flow or AFR's and should be in the 620-640hp range.

And yes, the iron block is only 96lbs more than an aluminum one. So if you build an all aluminum motor, that should offset the weight added by closed cooling.

Hi cory,

If you could can you e-mail the details of your build? that is great power for a motor much smaller then the HP500.

[email protected]
Thank you