chartersj

Got the module out of the boat and the paint looks new under the cover, filters definitely need to be changed, found a bumble bee in there as well. However 3 out of 6 of the bolts broke off getting the cover off. Dissimilar metals make lots of corrosion in the threads. Also going to see if I can tap the raw water inlets and put some threaded hose fittings in.

Ryan00TJ

iTrader: (8)

Mine also looked pretty good. Just one spot in the fuel pump side that looked to have bubbled a tad. I also broke a few getting the cover off. Should not have a problem tapping the housing. I am going to strip all internal paint and reassemble.

BUP

iTrader: (9)

back side metal fuel line in the cool fuel needs a new quad ring for reinstallment - if not -- using the old quad ring -- the chances of leaking fuel is prob 60 / 40 that it will,

Also the rubber heat sleeve needs to cover that whole section of that metal fuel line (again back side of the cool fuel ) .

the special screw on the side section of the cool fuel -- the fuel line section is what holds the fuel line in place.

BUP

iTrader: (9)

anti seize on the bolts and nuts especially for the bolts -- lift basket cool fuel.

BUP

iTrader: (9)

the past 5 years the newer cool fuel gen III has a front lower side blue plastic drain plug. ( finally) actually this is how all the water gets drained out of the cool fuel -- hence why merc finally got it right and decided on that design.

this is the 4 gen design of the gen III cool fuel. The last one I did --- did not have paint internally.

chartersj

Right on all good info and yeah definitely going to use some anti seize. I think I will strip the paint out of mine as well even though it looks good. I'm still going to pull the fuel rails to look for corrosion. What about the regulator does that see corrosion as well? I have been looking for a service manual and can only find them for serial numbers that start with OM.....
mine starts with a 1A

BUP

iTrader: (9)

Many make that mistake about the regulator on the fuel rail . It was never a regulator --- its a fuel dampner. The regulatar is in and a section of it --- is on top of the GEN 3 cool fuel. On the gen 2 cool fuel the regulator is mounted to the water / fuel cooler.

The fuel dampner NEEDS to be very clean as well. The rails need to be spotless internally. Most saltwater boat apps - the injectors I see are contaminated internally with a form a corrosion collected internally of the injector and the micro basket filters are as well. . Aluminum oxide and so on. The 496 can be the worst at times and with paint from the gen 3 cool fuel internally. This is one of the reason why I get so many 496 injectors - I prob in the heart of boating season get 50 percent injectors are from a 496's. Merc and Volvo.

50 to 60 percent come from other dealers whom are their customers. They do not want to get into that end of the business flow testing and cleaning injectors. Its time consuming if one does that service fully and double checks everything plus maintaining the machines as well.

KEEP IN MIND with filtration including the internally basket filters for the injectors - its a fine line between filtering and flow - one can not have 100 percent filtration because that restricts flow - and one can not have 100 percent flow because that really offers not good filtration. So you have to have a happy balance of the 2. Flow and filtration.

Dave M

^^ This. I choose to use Diacom software, but the point is the same.

chartersj

Ok is that dampner something that can be taken out and cleaned? And I plan on buying a scanner of some sort but need to address the major this first. How much pressure is in the fuel pump cavity? I took the module to a machine shop and could not get the broken bolts out...they are in good...welded nuts on the ends and kept twisting off. Wondering if I make it work with the ones left...not ideal but just want to get it running for now

chartersj

I have got the boat started on the hose but have not had it in the water yet, had a problem getting the fuel system primed but eventually got it with an outboard motor squeeze ball line to force it through the system....still waiting to get my interior back from the upholstery shop as well. But did hook the engine up to a computer. It showed that it had 100% power available, but 4 active codes came up.
91 pitot pressure low which i believe is common, 131 trim sensor circuit low, 75 fuel level 1 circuit high, and 191 fuel level 2 circuit high. Are they all normal codes or should I be concerned about any of them?