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-   -   Replacing trailer bunks (https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/general-boating-discussion/354046-replacing-trailer-bunks.html)

Gary864 05-23-2018 01:10 PM


Originally Posted by Sydwayz (Post 4627629)
Many years ago, I custom ordered some 4"x10" long bunks for a bunk trailer. It wasn't a big deal, and was not terribly expensive. I think I ordered Cypress which would be the best wood to use. I don't recommend treated lumber, and neither does Myco. Just plain Pine UNLESS you go to Cypress.

The worst think I found about the bunks "wearing" on the typical bolt-together aluminum trailer is that their were only a couple of through bolts supporting ALL the weight of the boat. This is because my bunks were not touching the trailer frame, but were suspended by those bolts above it.

Either have those big bunks setting all the way down on the trailer frame cross members, OR install some small blocks of wood to make up for the suspension that the through bolts are supporting. This was on a POS Rocket trailer under my 26' Sonic. I was much better when I was done with it.

that is exactly what I heard in the past. I been loading and unloading for years with out them so I won’t use them at this point. I only now have 1 in and 1 our with the trailer

convincor 05-23-2018 02:16 PM


Originally Posted by Boatally Insane (Post 4627879)
I did.. :).

Only downfall is they are REAL slippery

..When pulling the boat out I now have to leave the boat idling in gear until the winch get hooked


or it slides back in the water as you're walking up the bow.... :picard1:

And hook up the safety chain before pulling up to far. Have seen winch straps snap.

Interceptor 05-24-2018 09:55 AM

As someone previously posted treated lumber has a corrosive effect on the hardware used to fasten the bunks to the trailer.

Indy 05-24-2018 10:17 AM


Originally Posted by Interceptor (Post 4628196)
As someone previously posted treated lumber has a corrosive effect on the hardware used to fasten the bunks to the trailer.

Not true, stainless or hot dipped galvanized will be fine.

Interceptor 05-24-2018 05:55 PM


Originally Posted by Indy (Post 4628200)
Not true, stainless or hot dipped galvanized will be fine.

What then caused the galvanized lag bolts to erode ? I backed down a ramp, the boat floated free and so did two of the four bunks. The fasteners were eroded to a pointed shape with no thread left to grip the wood. This is on a fresh water use only trailer.

Indy 05-24-2018 06:11 PM


Originally Posted by Interceptor (Post 4628267)
What then caused the galvanized lag bolts to erode ? I backed down a ramp, the boat floated free and so did two of the four bunks. The fasteners were eroded to a pointed shape with no thread left to grip the wood. This is on a fresh water use only trailer.

Most decks in America would fall off the house if that was the case. Finding fasteners that are compliant with treated lumber is not hard, we use numerous types when we build decks. There has to be some sort of electrode potential between aluminum (is your trailer aluminum?)/steel/galvanized products...it's not the treated lumber.

Thunderous 05-24-2018 06:17 PM

If you do a little Googling you will see that its not uncommon for pressure treated wood bearing the mineral copper to be very hard on galvanized fasteners.

Indy 05-24-2018 06:37 PM


Originally Posted by Thunderous (Post 4628272)
If you do a little Googling you will see that its not uncommon for pressure treated wood bearing the mineral copper to be very hard on galvanized fasteners.

Hot dipped?

veloc410 05-24-2018 06:53 PM

Buy cypress bunks.Dont brother with any other wood. No other wood can compare. Then carpet them with something suitable.

veloc410 05-24-2018 06:55 PM


Originally Posted by Baja Rooster (Post 4627887)


Lol I never considered that.

my boat slips with just carpet. Plastic sounds dangerous????


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