dna

did some more reading and googlin - I think that ring I'm referring to (that has some cracks) is part of the whole transom assembly gimbal housing - I think this ring is what the bellows goes around along with the clamp - if this is the case that seems like major damage?? Looking on ebay the part alone is about $600US and I assume it would need all sorts of gaskets, etc, etc...

If I am right, what are your thoughts for a budget repair?

Also had friend turn steering and took a closer look at bellows - yup have a tear about 1" in one of the ribs - obviously that is how water was coming into the bilge - so off to parts store tomorrow for a new bearing and drive bellow, and I guess that special socket to get the gimbal housing off.

I also took a closer look at the two cracks on the transom housing ring, and I think I will be able to get away with it as-is. I have the two sections that broke, so once the gimbal housing is off and bellows I will try to cold-weld them back on - I think the purpose of this ring is for the bellows to have a solid connection but again the cracks/damage is minimal enough that I believe the bellows will still connect well.

I guess the question is what came first, the chicken or the egg? I mean the tear in the bellows which seized the bearing, or did the bearing seize and the debris tour a hole in the bellows?

phragle

iTrader: (3)

Well if the mounting flange for the bellows is broke, that could be your leak..... budget?? depending on whats wrong, if the transom assembly needs to be replaced, you can find a decent one for 600-700 bucks, BUT you can also find a used one for a grand that ends up needing to be rebuilt, and that can add up REAL QUICK, the swivel pin is a few hundred bucks, having the gimble ring welded and machined is a few hundred more, add in seals, bushings, new bellows new bearing and you about to the cost of a new transom assembly. So if you need to replace it, be VERY CAREFULL what you buy to replace it.

outonsafari

iTrader: (4)

the below link, use your serial number to locate your exact outdrive, post your serial number and put up more pics.
https://www.perfprotech.com/mercury-...rives#hp-table

as examples:
on the below link part #'s 8 -9 & 10 is what the input shaft on the out drive goes thru and into the coupler on the engine
https://www.perfprotech.com/mercury-...2/40?model=871

on the below link part #'s 22 thru 26
https://www.perfprotech.com/mercury-...2/80?model=871

by looking at the parts breakdown it should help you to better understand and explain what you are seeing.
clean it up real good, post the outdrive serial number and more pics, you will get good advice
on what is needed from the guys on this site.

dna

my engine serial is OD831888.

I have a few new questions:

1) I saw on ebay that you can buy a seal for the gimbal bearing - I don't think my exitsing one had one. what is the seal for? is it mandatory? I think my bearing (which I am now replacing) was a permanseal and doesn't even use the grease fitting. Is the seal on for non-sealed bearings?

2) my shaft had 2 rubber o-rings which fit into some grooves - both of the o-rings were destroyed. I have a package of misc o-rings. As long as they fit snug, is it OK to use or should I absoluetly get the ones from tghe marine shop for my drive? Parts are hard to find in Calgary and I'd just rather use my generic multiple sized ones than wait a week for them to be ordered in.

3) when I did my bearing and u-joints 3 years ago I did use a brand new gasket kit for the outdrive. The gasket still looks good. Can I get away with reusing it or should I absolutely get a new gasket kit?

Thanks

rak rua

phragle

iTrader: (3)

this is 2018, the correct orings, etc can all be easily and economically ordered online and delivered to your front door,

You already exploded one bearing, you do realize that if that bearing gorws and and siezes/binds it could bust the transom housing worse than it did, leaving you with a softball size hole on the back of your boat and below the waterline...this could also facilitate swimming lessons...... Is that worth a few bucks worth of seals and orings?

Indy

Boats are expensive as sh!t, don't cheap out because it'll cost way more in the long run. "Saving money" and "boat" are mutually exclusive, especially as you're miles from shore and your boat is going down in the drink and the VHF you have with reused batteries is only good for sticking up your @#^&$.

Do the right thing or buy a car.

dna

OK - I'll get the proper orings and get a new gasket for the drive - actually it isn't really a gasket but rather custom rubber orings shaped to go around various sections - but I'll get them all new. So today I removed the drive bellows and cleaned it up a bit (was able to get it out without having to remove the gimbal housing - I was able to remove both the exhaust and drive bellows while leaving it on) - here is a pic


You'll now easily notice the damage to the transom housing ring - I have (since taking the picture) JB welded the broken pieces back on and it is holding tight. I have 5 jetskis and about 4 years ago I didn't winterize one right and cracked the top cylinder wall - I JB welded it and to today is holding fine. I'm sure the JB weld on this repair will be fine since the broken sections are part of what the bellows slides onto and where the clamps holds it down - even with these two sections broken off the bellows was still tight againt the walls - but what are your thoughts?

In the picture you'll also notice that I still have the outer ring of the bearing in there (the inner bearing was destroyed to pieces). I'm having a real hard time getting this outer bearing piece out, because there is literally only about 2mm lip in behind the bearing being it is butted up against the wall - I've tried a puller and a slide hammer with no luck. Any suggestions?? I have 2 ideas - one is to remove the inner bearing from the new bearing I will buy and simply install it into the outer bearing in the boat - this is actually what I did 3 years ago being I wasn't able to get the bearing out then either. Idea 2 is similar, except I would install the new inner bearing into my existing outer bearing and then use my slide hammer or puller to get the whole unit out, then swap the inner bearing again and reinstall. A 3rd idea is to go to the local marine repair shop and see if they have a bad bearing they would give me, and basically I would use the inner bearing to install into mine and use the bad bearing to pull it all out - your thoughts?

Lastly in the picture you can see behind the bearing there is another opening which what appears to be a ring around it - the ring seems a little warped - what is that section? On a similar note, when the bearing blew apart I was able to get some pieces from the inside the bellows or on the shaft but I'm sure I'm missing some stuff (ie. I only found two bearing balls but suspect the bearing has at least 10) - where would the debris have gone and could that cause me trouble or damage? I suspect it fell behind that hole (behind the bearing) - what is behind there - is it just an opening to the engine/bilge area? Should I be concerned with the warped ring behind the bearing?

Oh, one more thing - when I get my new bearing, do I need to buy a bearing seal and if so where does the seal (on the engine side or the drive side?) go and how does it attach? I think all new bearings are permasealed (and don't need to be greased via the nipple) and don't need these extra seals but I'm not sure.

Thanks

rak rua

phragle

iTrader: (3)