36Tango

Last week I was heading to the lake and smoked a wheel bearing, which also severely damaged the spindle. We were able to get it cleaned up enough with a grinder to put it all back together, but after doing that, I noticed that the wheel is not straight up and down, but leans slightly in on the top like the trailer was loaded down. Upon closer inspection, the axle actually bows upward in the middle (the opposite way that one would think). I keep the bearings greased and every time I have stopped while pulling a trailer over the last 40 years, I have always checked the temp of the hubs. I really believe that the culprit in this case was that a surge brake was hanging up, causing a brake to drag, heating it all up, and cooking out the grease. I drug the trailer back home and now I need to figure out what to do (the rear, brakeless axle is fine and runs cool).

I know that I need to replace the "braked" axle, but is there some new technology out there where I should replace both? This is the third time over the years that surge brakes cost me a challenge, should a guy switch to electric? If so what "kit" should be used? Or, should a guy go through the whole surge brake system (I have to admit that I probably do not grease the slide part of the tounge enough)?

The trailer was made by Douglas Marine for my 28 Skater. I do not tow it a ton, but I want it to be right. Thanks for any insights.

Sydwayz

iTrader: (1)

Your best bet would be to convert to Kodiak Disc brakes and EoH setup. I converted a trailer to discs years ago and it was night and day difference, and that was still with a surge coupler. The disc and EoH will be your most reliable and trouble free long term setup, and worth every penny of investment.

flat rate

iTrader: (3)

F-2 Speedy

iTrader: (6)

some axles are designed with a bow in the middle, had to buy one from Croft trailer for another trailer, my current trailer has replaceable spindles, 5 bolts, might want to consider these.

offshorexcursion

iTrader: (5)

I agree EOH Disc are a must!

Axle bow is normal and I agree is hard to fathom. Too much or too little wears the tires uneven, but a straight axle can also.

Replaceable spindles are cool.

Oil bath dual lip seals with EZ Lube grease spindles and Timken bearings help a little.

upgrade to HD tires with more plys. Steel belted help. I've even had good luck with certain off brand like Sailun.

Personally I believe that ALL trailer axle components are a complete JOKE! They are made in China crap overpriced and poorly constructed. The only reason they get away with this scam is most people don't put enough miles on campers, boats, etc. So when they do break down prematurely it's been years so your not upset. Well compare that to miles and think how happy you would be if your truck blew bearings every 10,000 miles!!! Just look at a half ton pickup rear axle, brakes, bearings, leaf springs, and shackles compared to a common 7k trailer axle!!! Embarrassing!

Best solution is oversize everything so it has a chance to live. And obviously stay up on maintenance. It's possible, seriously, to install larger axles, bearings brakes with less suspension so the ride is not to rough. So if you only need triple 6k axles I would get triple 8k with 7k suspension, or something like that.

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Griff

I assuming you have surge drum brakes?? If so, I would just convert it to electric drums. Just get new electric brake plates and wire it.
I agree that EOH discs would be great, but your boat is not very heavy and you don't trailer a bunch, so I think its overkill and EOH would cost 5x as much.

Wildman_grafix

I just converted a Myco dual axle from surge drum to 4 wheel EOH Disk brakes. Your choice on staying surge or not but the differance is stunning.

I changed hubs to these https://www.easternmarine.com/tiedow...-hub-kit-81013.

They are very nice, Kodiak SS calipers, Kodiak disk brake kit, a dual axle brake line kit and a Hydrastar plug and play system.

I had to buy the springs from Myco and those were expensive but standard springs didn't fit. Doing the work myself I have $2500 into it including the little tool box to mount everything in. The only issue I had was the molded 7 prong plug supplied was wired incorrectly.

Even if you decide not to go EHO, take a look at those hubs, very nice. I don't trailer as much as I used to but can say I have NEVER had a trailer failure, other then tires. I kind of go overboard on the PM's.

Strip Poker 388

iTrader: (6)

i haven't had much trouble with the hyd, but when the actuator goes out ill change over to the eoh, its around $900, Ck with etrailer.com ,I just change out all my brakes and the kit was cheaper than the pc's

i also changed to the air tight hub/cap, its a pain!!! trying to get them to seal off to hold air ive got 3 night worth so far and still fighting it. Air-Tight Hubs: Home...





Rob