Engine corrosion protection
#1
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Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Glastonbury, CT
Just wondering what you salt water guys do to your inboard engines on a regular basis. Do you spray them down with anything? I know Salt Away and others for the inner protection, but what about the outside of the engine such as oil pan and the inner transom assembly and other components?
Thanks
Thanks
#2
FWC and beyond that not sure how much other protection is needed.
Oil pan is painted, inner transom assembly is painted and there shouldn't be any salt water in the bilge. I get I little water in the bilge if it rains (comes through the cleats) but I leave the plug out when on the lift so there is only a few ounces that accumulate. I shop vac that out before we go anywhere.
Oil pan is painted, inner transom assembly is painted and there shouldn't be any salt water in the bilge. I get I little water in the bilge if it rains (comes through the cleats) but I leave the plug out when on the lift so there is only a few ounces that accumulate. I shop vac that out before we go anywhere.
#3
It's been my experience that if you're not using a cocktail of lighter weight anti corrosion sprays on a regular basis the best stuff I've ever found is CRC Heavy Duty Corrosion Inhibitor.
It's also best to nip it in the bud early , that is do it well when everything is brand new .
While I agree that the salt water should stay on the outside of the boat out here even the air is constantly saturated with salt . You don't want to see what happens to 'regular' house hardware and even rustproofed cars !
It's also best to nip it in the bud early , that is do it well when everything is brand new .
While I agree that the salt water should stay on the outside of the boat out here even the air is constantly saturated with salt . You don't want to see what happens to 'regular' house hardware and even rustproofed cars !
#4
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Joined: Mar 2019
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From: Perdido Key, Madison, NC
I like the idea of CRC Heavy Duty Corrosion Inhibitor sprayed around the engine but I am always concerned about getting it on belts ( inducing slipping), electricals, and alternator any suggestions/advice?
Last edited by F14A water jet; 07-31-2021 at 08:56 AM.
#5
I use the lighter weight sprays for sealed or snap together electrical connectors but find it's excellent for exposed electrical connections such as under dash and house wiring terminals and battery connections and grounds.
#6
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Joined: Jul 2015
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From: Atlantic Southeast
How's your bilge look with all that corrosion inhibitor running off the engine on to the floor? How about if you need to work on it and everything is slippery?
I assume it's more of a mess than it's worth and why I ask. School me please!
I assume it's more of a mess than it's worth and why I ask. School me please!
#7
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Joined: May 2007
Posts: 292
Likes: 60
From: Stuart, fl
crc 656 spray it down and wipe it down, i do it evey time i use the boat i spray the drives and transom plates also, works great doesent leave the wax film like the corrosion inhibitor or boesheild does, it will leave a slippery silicone film on stuff but it comes off pretty easy, it dosent run off the engines into the bilge unless your pouring in on way too heavy
#8
If I'm starting from scratch I'd put down a covering to catch the runny stuff if that was what I was using but the CRD HD corrosion inhibitor doesn't run once dry.
If I've ever had oil in the bilge it was from a leaking trim line or PS unit .
#10
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Joined: Jul 2015
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From: Atlantic Southeast
My bilges (2 boats) are often compared to hospital operating rooms.
If I'm starting from scratch I'd put down a covering to catch the runny stuff if that was what I was using but the CRD HD corrosion inhibitor doesn't run once dry.
If I've ever had oil in the bilge it was from a leaking trim line or PS unit .
If I'm starting from scratch I'd put down a covering to catch the runny stuff if that was what I was using but the CRD HD corrosion inhibitor doesn't run once dry.
If I've ever had oil in the bilge it was from a leaking trim line or PS unit .



