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That's just because your Cig was sloooooooow.:evilb: I do agree, stag is the way to go on I/O's.
To the OP and others, I will have to say after all the issues my friends have with OB's that to get reliable the best thing is to buy new. And I don't mean from a aftermarket builder. From a true factory that qualifies the vendors and vendor parts.
Originally Posted by DrFeelgood
(Post 4800519)
Agreed. Had a Cig Cafe Racer for a couple of years, to scratch that itch. Got tired of being bent over a barrel to have work done on I/Os, or bending myself into a pretzel to get into the bilge for things like sea pump maintenance. Sold it and bought a 28 Manta with twin 250 Outboards, runs just as fast and I can stand on the swim platform/engine bracket to do most repairs or maintenance. My back and wallet thanks me.
I'd still consider another I/O boat but it would have to be a single, or staggered twins($$$) to avoid some of the issues with big twins in an 8' beam. If it's an itch you need to scratch then by all means do it -- otherwise you'll always wonder. It's one of those things that you have to experience firsthand (the good and the bad). |
Originally Posted by Wildman_grafix
(Post 4800558)
That's just because your Cig was sloooooooow.:evilb: I do agree, stag is the way to go on I/O's.
To the OP and others, I will have to say after all the issues my friends have with OB's that to get reliable the best thing is to buy new. And I don't mean from a aftermarket builder. From a true factory that qualifies the vendors and vendor parts. If you want to go fast in a big Cig, that means Twin Step Top Gun, and that is easily twice the cost of a straight bottom Top Gun, or maybe 3x the cost of a Cafe. OB's aren't necessarily perfectly reliable, no man-made machine would be expected to be. It's just a whole lot easier to do a lot of the work yourself in your driveway, including unbolting a powerhead and dropping it off at a shop, if a rebuild is what's needed. No gantry crane, no removing sun pads / hatches, no outdrive removal / reinstallation / alignment nonsense, no bellows to worry about either. It's like working on a Chevy 350 in a van versus the same exact motor in a pickup -- the motor is simple but access is the issue, turning routine tasks into knuckle-busters. |
Generally
The less HP you have the more reliability you `ll have.
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Originally Posted by ICDEDPPL
(Post 4800595)
The less HP you have the more reliability you `ll have.
20-25 years ago if a Merc 1000 fired once the warranty was basically up |
I think everyone has touched on most of it, but there are numerous factors involved also.
1. Is the boat/ engine/out drives fresh or salt water? 2. What type of maintenance /care/protection did the previous owner take? I've seen newer stuff that looks like ****, and older that looks brand new. 3. And how was the boat operated? Daily driver? Sunday sailor that does an occasional WOT pass? Poker run boat that does WOT everywhere? To ask what are the most reliable is all relative to these 3 factors. 1. is obvious to answer. 2. a general inspection can answer (but a few hundred bucks and a good boat detailing can mask some of it) 3. an engine scan can be very beneficial to determine how the engine or engines were used. Best bet is to find a boat that was well cared for and continue to maintain it well. . |
To sum up...it depends.
:drink: |
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