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You don't plan on using your fitting correct? You are using 33c cables correct? Where are you getting these angles? With the Mercury kit (which is actually a cord grip) it's a straight travel and a little bend on the other side of the transom. Also the travel of the 33c cable should be more than that of the cylinder.
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Originally Posted by Rookie
(Post 4857697)
You don't plan on using your fitting correct? You are using 33c cables correct? Where are you getting these angles? With the Mercury kit (which is actually a cord grip) it's a straight travel and a little bend on the other side of the transom. Also the travel of the 33c cable should be more than that of the cylinder.
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Originally Posted by Sutphil
(Post 4857510)
There was old style hardware for these early tabs that secured the thru-hull cable in two places.
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Originally Posted by justintocars
(Post 4857617)
So the geometry of the cable is killing me if I drill the tab. I come up with 36* for the fitting, which is 11* of deflection for the end of the cable. Can they operate in that much of a bind?
Can someone mesure the angle or the fitting in merc tabs? |
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Saw this old firefox and looks like they used a 45 thru hull and then some kind of router that attached to the cylinder to get the angle right. Might be an additional option. I had a circa 1990 and have a 1989 boat now and both have cables going thru a hole in trim tab mount |
Originally Posted by justintocars
(Post 4857700)
Do you happen to ha e a picture of one?
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I have old trim tabs like you. The cable housing attaches to the transom bracket with one iof these cable brackets and the end of the cable is attached to a ball stud that attaches to the K plane itself. And then the cable runs up and goes thru a clam shell above the waterline.
https://nuwavemarine.com/aftermarket...xoCouQQAvD_BwE https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...499c1404de.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...db00d63069.png https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...54eb0e63ba.png https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...8f8810a547.png |
when you drill the hole for the cable to go through the transom, you need to first drill the hole, then come back & make the hole bigger/taller on the inside of the transom, so that the cable comes through & flows upward so it won't be bent at all. this goes for any through transom fitting that you put the cable through. seal it, when done, of course, with caulking.
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Also, when drilling out the new transom on my AT. I made up a batch of resin and MEKP and dipped pipe cleaners it and then used the pipe cleaner to coat the wood to add another protective barrier from water. Be sure to add tape so the resin doesn't run down the gel/paint. I did that for all holes and cutouts.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...f0bd083a04.jpg |
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