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Originally Posted by ICDEDPPL
(Post 4943068)
That dude`s charges will make my nose bleed.
I got a quote on upholstry and almost fell over. I`m on a budget. and it`s not $20k |
Vehicle repair rates around here are$150-$195/hr. 3 hrs goes by fast, thus $600 too !
That said, i don’t know what upholstery rates are now a days. But…everything seems brutal |
Originally Posted by lake p.a.l.
(Post 4943115)
Buds old Skater he put the push in cleat receptacles & had a plastics company make 2 windshields. So he had 4 small holes to drill, install the clean small stainless cleat receptacles, & put the windscreens in when he wanted them.
Worked great |
Just throwing something out against wall to think about. Few boats i work on use these quick releases for their biminis.
https://www.overtons.com/-quick-rele...ct5mWKJAbeU_C0 |
Originally Posted by ICDEDPPL
(Post 4943150)
Thats exactly what I had in mind.. just trying to figure out how to adapt the cleats to the windshield. Cliffs cleat seems like the best choice so far .
You may have to have something made. Not a shameless plug, but I've done this sort of thing a thousand times. An adapter, if you will, that has provisions for the receptacle on one end, and a bracket that the windshield on the other. Been there, done that. Look at how the old inverted wind deflectors were on the old skool daycruisers were mounted, just with a stem for the receptacle instead of screwed to the deck of the boat. Thanks. Brad. |
Originally Posted by Helmwurst
(Post 4943125)
Yes, he is, but it will look factory. BTW, upholstery work has gotten ridiculous. I just installed a driver seat yesterday for an older friend in his MB suv. He had it done at an upholstery shop in Springfield MO. All they did was replace the bottom panel in the seat, we removed it, he drove it to them and picked it up a week later and they charged him 600.00
I bought all the material . Material is cheap btw. yard of vinyl is $40-70 ... $150 for marine alcanta. A little over $2k in material and she charged me $4k to redo the whole interior. Came out great . |
Originally Posted by Brad Christy
(Post 4943158)
Dan,
You may have to have something made. Not a shameless plug, but I've done this sort of thing a thousand times. An adapter, if you will, that has provisions for the receptacle on one end, and a bracket that the windshield on the other. Been there, done that. Look at how the old inverted wind deflectors were on the old skool daycruisers were mounted, just with a stem for the receptacle instead of screwed to the deck of the boat. Thanks. Brad. |
Take off that top piece and buy a cheap piece of plywood or whatever cut to fit and bolt it up to some of the existing holes. Throw some people in the back and run it for proof of concept. Easy-peasy. I'm sure Brad could make some multi angled brackets to bolt it behind the seats if you didn't want it super easy to remove or drill anything. |
I wouldn`t want it permanent, someone would trip over it and faceplant right on top of the T handles and break their face , we cant have that lol
If this works I know who the next customer will be .. DAVE! :drink: |
Originally Posted by LakeBoat4
(Post 4943072)
Dan,
This may not be the easiest way to go but will work just as you are talking about. The acuators need to be mounted in back of the seat bulkhead and a slot cut in it for movement, plastic wind deflector in front between seat back and bulkhead. I would use two of them with the control unit for even movement. 22 lbs each or more force will work. Just the more weight the slower they move. I am using thers for a (raise & lower) windshield on my new Cat build, 3 section pieces. Also for raising the engine hatch, 24 inch traval with controller. https://www.firgelliauto.com/collect...r-actuator-12v That is engineering above my pay grade ,however I found an actuator that is 2" per second vs mine at .5"/second. We have fenders/ropes in the bilge so a faster open/close will be much better . https://www.firgelliauto.com/product...nt=11256348422 |
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