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OT-Question for GM techs

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Old 02-24-2003, 06:18 PM
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I ran into similar problems on a Chevy Tahoe. I heard it all.
1. Don't drop below a 1/4 tank to maintain pump cooling.
2. Check you have a good ground, or the pump may be drawing excessive amperage.
3. Other GM cars have had problems with the supply wire harness to the pump being to small a wire gauge, again draws high amperage.

I went through 3 pumps in just over a year. The last one failed slowly while I was towing our boat. I would have bet I had blown a tranny. I started drop gears- drive, then second, then I could only use first. Pulled into a rest stop and it wouldn't restart. I had the truck towed to a tranny shop. The tranny was fine, fuel pump was bad. As I dropped fuel pressure it effect the engine and trans.

I now drive a F250.
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Old 02-24-2003, 07:30 PM
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like todd said a loose are bad ground will cause a higher than normal amp load, also have had some of the pins in the connector that plugs into the fuel pump get burned from the first fuel pump failure, a bad connection here will cause all kind of problems, with GM though you can get just the connector and pins you do not have to replace the whole wiring harness, good luck
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Old 02-25-2003, 08:53 AM
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Well, I had the idiots replace the cap and rotor. The kid drove the truck around for me to drive. I got in AND IT WOULDN'T START! They wouldn't drag a tech around to look at it so I know that it will start just fine when the check it in the morning.

Thanks guys for your suggestions. I'll forward them on to the dealer for them to look into. Not that they would listen to me...
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Old 02-25-2003, 10:34 AM
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When they pull out the fuel pump have them check the connector that goes thru the sending unit. Check for burnt contacts. Clean all grounds. Ran into this a few times.
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Old 02-25-2003, 11:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by vtec
Cord:

I'm assuming this is an electric pump.

Replace the fuel pump relay (cheap $6-$9 at national auto parts stores). Sometimes the relay sticks causing the simptoms you mentioned. Mechanics seem to have a hard time diagnosing this.

Also consider replacing the fuel pressure regulator.

Third, possibly a vapor lock condition, via the gas tank vent, etc.

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vtec
Ing. switch too
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Old 02-26-2003, 01:25 PM
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Well, the truck wouldn't start, BECAUSE THE FUEL PUMP WAS BURNED OUT! And the tech tried arguing with me that it was because the cap & rotor were bad. Anybody want to get in on a pool for how long this one lasts?
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Old 02-26-2003, 01:37 PM
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The dealer didn't replace the cap & rotor. They did replace the pump. I ran down the list you guys had given me, and they did check an number of the items. Any other ideas out there?
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Old 02-26-2003, 01:49 PM
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Fuel pump was burnt out BECAUSE of the cap and rotor??? I would love an explination to that one!!!
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Old 02-26-2003, 02:04 PM
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Well, you know...stupid customer.
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Old 02-26-2003, 02:53 PM
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check your blinker fluid, flux capaciter, and muffler bearings.
I've worked at a # of dealerships and none of them b.s. thier customers I don't know how those shops can stay in buisness.
Cord: hope you get the bugs out.
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