Ya know what....I just felt the bottom side of this friggin bolt...it doesn't sit in a hallway so to speak it sits open to the bottom......with a slot to hold the nut.......screw this....time to grind.....

Am I right about this?????........this nut just sits on the bottom side of the transom assembly in a slot?????

Nothing else holds this bolt to the assembly?

If someone replaced it with a stainless bolt and a stainless ''nyloc'' nut" and neglicted to use anti sieze, it may as well be welded together.

Yes the nut slides in from the front. Mine came with Stainless Bolts and aluminum nuts. Use never seize always on these to allow removal. My aluminum nuts have been replaced with Stainless nylocks. Stainless on aluminum will corrode worse than stainless on stainless because of dissimilar metals. Stainless on Stainless needs lube or they can gall threads pretty easy. Cut the heads off then you may be able to drill them out once you get the motor out. Just my .02. Good luck.

All of the rear mount bolts I have seen have been steel and have fine threads. The Nyloc nut on the bottom sits in a slot, it holds the nut and keeps it from turning.

As far as heating it, the surounding material is Aluminum and the area is real tight!

Have you sprayed the nut and bolt with WD-40 or PB Blaster and let it soak?

The only ones I ever had trouble with were salt water boats and the bolt was frozen in the tube it goes thru, on the bellhousing. It wasnt the Nyloc nut keeping the bolt from turning.

If the bolt is froze in the tube (it goes thru,bellhousing) then even if you snap off the head you still will not be able to lift the engine out!

Foul, the bolt is steel and as you say the nut is aluminum. The problem is usually not that the nut is locked up, but that the bolt is seized in the engine mounts.

Impact does not work because the mount is a steel sleeve bonded to rubber, the rubber absorbs the impact. Just taking the head off the bolt will not help if this is the case. The breaker bar and 6 point socket is a good start.

Been a while since I did one but I seem to remember cutting the bolts with a swazall, cut right against the flywheel housing then there should be enough left of the bolt to get the remainder out of the alum nut after the engine is out. Of course the rubber mounts get replaced.

Marc is right!

Thats what I meant when I said froze up in the tube the bolt goes thru.


I have got really pissed and just turned them with a breaker bar untill the rubber around the tube spun in the bellhouseing like spinning the hub on a prop.

If wasn't easy but I got the engine out.

Well, I knew something was aluminum!! LOL!! I always use anti-sieze when I put mine back in (I tend to have my motor out more often than most......run em hard, break em hard!!). Never had trouble getting those bolts out though. Then again, I don't reff them down real hard when I put them back in either. Aluminum nut, don't want to strip it out. That's not to say I don't get it tight, just don't put that extra 1/8th turn on it like you would a steel/steel combination. Good and snug & that's it.

Does anybody know of this bolt is a standard straight thrugh bolt or is it something special.....I.E. wide as hell.....or is that just the sleeve of the mount?....

Thats the sleeve of the mount. The bolt is 1/2 shank I think.It is tapered at the tip to help guide it when installing it.

Heat it up with a torch and wick some parafin (wax/crayon) or WD on it. Be carefull with the surrounding rubber.