A little help guys.......
 

Alrighty the boats back and all is well except it won't run!

That's right...I'm a little disturbed.

Here's what she's doin.....It will turn over and start right up and dies immediatly.You can keep doin this over and over.It won't stay lit for a half second.

I assume it's electrical cause NO amount of throttle changes anything.

Now here's what was done to the boat.....Motor came out and had coupler,bellhousing and yoke replaced.:confused:

Bad ignition switch.Otto

Okay forgot one thing y....If I hold the key to start it....Ya know like over starting it...it will stay lit till I let off.......It ran fine three days ago!

Like Otto said, check the ignition switch. It is making contact in the start position, but not in the run position. I ran into this same problem last year. I couldn't convince myself that it was the ignition switch, because I could tell someone had just changed it. (the old one was still in the boat) Run a wire from the battery to the coil and see if it will run.

You answered your own question. The good news is it's fixed for $12. Otto

Since the engine was just out(and it worked before) I would think a wire is back in the wrong place. Or try wiggling the main plug by the shift cable. I had grief with that twice.

I had a intermittent problem with that main harness a year ago.But it would stop everything....all power would shut off for a second and then back on....So fast that you wouldn't notice it.

But when that happened it would only cut off after running for at least 20 minutes.....then it would start right back up and go on..Hmmmm:rolleyes:

Is it okay to run a wire from battery straight to coil?

The fact that you ask that question tells me that you have never stolen a car.Otto

:D :D

So those little ignition switches are pretty easy to find...Like auto parts stores and such?

It's got four wires going into it but two are on the same terminal.

So it has three terminals.:crazy:

Please be patient with me I have had a VERY looooooooong day.;)

battery(+) to coil(+)

you can get the marine ones at Napa or Boatfix.com. About the same price when you figure shipping. Oh and Walmart may have them too.

US1 Fountain is right----

+of battery to +of coil bypasses the entire harness for ignition power. THen hit the key to start, if it runs, the problem is the switch or harness.

good luck!:)

excuse me guys...
 

But in those years, wasn't there an ignition resistor? (or something like that). It allowed B+ voltage to the coil while cranking, then as soon as the engine started and you released the key from start to run position, it lowered the voltage to the coil while the engine was running?
Or are we talking about the same thing?

Yes, there is, or was a resistor in the system. This is to allow the engine to fire on less than 12 volts it will be putting out while cranking the starter. I think in the old days it was also to help keep the points from burning, which isn't an issue now days.

Well this one does have points.....What fun huh?

But remember she will stay lit if the key is held in the start position.Just when it turns back it dies!

There is a small rectangular ceramic part next to the coil and carb.It has two wires. One on each end.

Am I correct on thinking the ignition switch is the piece with the key in it and the assembly behind it.

Check the wires at the coil, older boats and cars have three wires running to the coil, two on the positive side and one on the negative. When the ignition is in the on position (lower) voltage is sent through one of the positive wires, when the ignition is in the start position (higher) voltage is sent through the other one. Whoever reinstalled the motor may have missed one wire at the coil. GM used this two wire setup so that when starting the motor there is more voltage going to coil, it made starting easier, unfortunitly these wires ran through the starter , so you may want to check the starter wires also. There may be a wire on the wrong terminal of the starter.

Hope that helps.

Brian

Ohhh yea, the small ceramic thing is to lower the voltage supplied to the coil. This is only used when the ignition switch is in the on position. Use a test light and check both terminals of it with the ignition in the on postion. If the light comes on for one side but not the other, replace it. If it does not come on at all you have a problem at the ignition switch or maybe the starter. If they both come one then check the positive terminal on the coil with the test light.

Brian

That small ceramic thing is a ballast resistor, it drops voltage to the distributor (Chrysler used these years ago in their cars)
to test jump the wires on the ballast resistor and see if the engine runs if so replace the resistor
FYI: A full 12 volts to coil will eventually burn it out

Thanx guys I got her......:D :chimp: :D :D

I checked the resistor and one of the wires was shrink wrapped but broken off inside......put new terminal on it and Presto!

Cleaned the cap and rotor up a touch and just touched the key.Purred like a kitten.......;) Found another peice of wood behind a cushion to replace so off to the garage to cut away...................:crazy: