diamond plate in the engine area
12-09-2003, 06:23 AM
#11
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Do It
My experience, take the time to paint it. The natural shinny finish won't last and strong cleaners attack it instantly. Powder coating isn't very flexible and tends to fail at the flex points and lastly be sure you install it so it can be removed without to much work cause you're gonna need access under it eventually. We used L angles drilled and tapped where there was no natural bearing, have fun.
12-09-2003, 07:42 AM
#13
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Originally posted by tomtbone1993
so what's better powder coat or regular paint ? against salt and cleaners
so what's better powder coat or regular paint ? against salt and cleaners
12-09-2003, 08:46 AM
#15
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That rubber stuff that was recommended in your thread would work nicely for the floor. Two draw backs: It's porus so oil will stain it and stuff is really heavy. On the other hand it's easier to cut an put down. One could try glueing it down with some daubs of silicone caulk.
12-09-2003, 08:52 AM
#16
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Re: Do It
Originally posted by WickedWon
My experience, take the time to paint it. The natural shinny finish won't last and strong cleaners attack it instantly. Powder coating isn't very flexible and tends to fail at the flex points and lastly be sure you install it so it can be removed without to much work cause you're gonna need access under it eventually. We used L angles drilled and tapped where there was no natural bearing, have fun.
My experience, take the time to paint it. The natural shinny finish won't last and strong cleaners attack it instantly. Powder coating isn't very flexible and tends to fail at the flex points and lastly be sure you install it so it can be removed without to much work cause you're gonna need access under it eventually. We used L angles drilled and tapped where there was no natural bearing, have fun.
12-09-2003, 08:54 AM
#17
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Re: Do It
Originally posted by WickedWon
My experience, take the time to paint it. The natural shinny finish won't last and strong cleaners attack it instantly. Powder coating isn't very flexible and tends to fail at the flex points and lastly be sure you install it so it can be removed without to much work cause you're gonna need access under it eventually. We used L angles drilled and tapped where there was no natural bearing, have fun.
My experience, take the time to paint it. The natural shinny finish won't last and strong cleaners attack it instantly. Powder coating isn't very flexible and tends to fail at the flex points and lastly be sure you install it so it can be removed without to much work cause you're gonna need access under it eventually. We used L angles drilled and tapped where there was no natural bearing, have fun.
POWDERCOATING IS VERY FLEXIBLE.....WANT PROOF?
12-09-2003, 08:55 AM
#18
Registered
Originally posted by WickedWon
All the " two part" paints are more durable and more easily touched up than powder coating. The big Sportfishers and Yachts that work and live in the salt everyday are covered in Imron, Awlgrip ect... Even the natural teak and mahogany trim is covered in clear Awlgrip on the nicest rigs.
All the " two part" paints are more durable and more easily touched up than powder coating. The big Sportfishers and Yachts that work and live in the salt everyday are covered in Imron, Awlgrip ect... Even the natural teak and mahogany trim is covered in clear Awlgrip on the nicest rigs.
WHEN THE PROPER MATERIALS ARE USED, POWDERCOATING HAS PROVEN IN TESTS TO WITHSTAND MORE HOURS OF SALTSPRAY TESTING THEN THE MAJORITY OF LIQUID PAINTS
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