There called muff divers

all depends on the time of the year.. once a month would keep them clean.. most poeple re-paint once a year and clean drives as needed.. summer time with the warmer water you have to clean more..

I think Nort is planning a secret move to LOTO!

Are you saying that you don't need to clean the bottom if there is bottom paint, and you do need to clean the bottom if there is not bottom paint? I suppose it also depends upon how much you use the boat too?

Nort what happens is the top layer of the paint actually falls off as you drive. This releases any crap that you may have built up. I can not remember what they call that but I am sure some one does. If you leave your boat in the water for a week in Florida you can have one hell of beared. If you leave your boat in the water up in Maine all year you will barely have anything.

Jon

Jon

That doesn't make sense! You paint it on, and the paint falls off as you use the boat?

Yup that is how it works. I will try and find a link for you.

Jon

ABLATIVE ANTIFOULINGS – Ablative Antifoulings wear away with use, which reduces paint build-up. This reduces the maintenance and preparation needed when it’s time to apply more antifouling paint and ends the annual ritual of sanding. Ablative Antifoulings, such as Fiberglass Bottomkote ACT not only provide excellent antifouling properties but also can be applied over most other antifouling paints.

Man I am glad I did not guess on the name because I was not even close

Also you would be suprised. Those boats that you do not think have anti fouling paint probably do. You can get all kinds of stuff.

SELF-POLISHING COPOLYMERS – SPC technology antifoulings work because the film contains a patented resin called an ‘SPC Copolymer’. This copolymer reacts with saltwater in a controlled way. As a result, the chemical reactions controls and sustains the release of biocides throughout the lifetime of the antifouling without decline. This chemical reaction will take place at the same rate whether you boat is underway or sitting at the dock. This type of technology has previously only been available in tin-based copolymer coatings, which are restricted in their use to boats over 82 feet in length. This new, patented Interlux technology is available for professional application to boats of all sizes. It is not recommended for use in fresh water.
For Self-Polishing Copolymers ask for Micron® 66

CONTROLLED SOLUBILITY COPOLYMERS – These types of antifoulings are partially soluble which means that as water passes across the surface of the coating, it wears down much like a bar of soap would wear away. The physical action of the water over the surface steadily reduces the thickness of the paint at a controlled rate, which results in always having fresh biocide at the surface of the paint throughout the season. For this reason these types of antifoulings have the capability to perform in the areas of highest fouling challenge. Since the biocides are chemically bound to Controlled Solubility Copolymers they can be hauled and relaunched without repainting as the longevity these coatings are related to the thickness of the paint.
For Controlled Solubility Copolymer Antifoulings ask for Micron® Extra with Biolux®, Micron® CSC or Micron® Optima.

ABLATIVE ANTIFOULINGS – Ablative Antifoulings wear away with use, which reduces paint build-up. This reduces the maintenance and preparation needed when it’s time to apply more antifouling paint and ends the annual ritual of sanding. Ablative Antifoulings, such as Fiberglass Bottomkote ACT not only provide excellent antifouling properties but also can be applied over most other antifouling paints.
For Ablative Antifoulings ask for Fiberglass Bottomkote® ACT.

HARD ANTIFOULINGS – The technical term for these types of antifouling paints is ‘contact leaching’. The paint dries to a porous film that is packed with biocides, which leach out on contact with water to prevent fouling growth. This leaching is chemically designed to release biocide throughout the season, but the amount will steadily decrease until there is not enough biocide coming out of the paint film to maintain fouling protection. Once the biocide is exhausted, the hard paint film remains on the boat. Hard antifoulings do not retain their antifouling ability out of the water and cannot be hauled and relaunched without repainting. One of the main benefits of this type of antifouling is its resistance to abrasion and rubbing. This makes it ideal for fast powerboats, racing sailboats or boats where the owners have the bottoms scrubbed regularly. Most hard antifouling paints can be wet sanded and burnished prior to launch to reduce drag and improve hull speed.
For Hard Antifoulings ask for UltraTM with Biolux®, Ultra-Kote®, Fiberglass Bottomkote® or Fiberglass Bottomkote® Aqua. For Hard Racing Finishes ask for VC®, Offshore with Teflon®, Baltoplate, VC® 17m Extra or VC® 17m.

Ablative is used on most stuff these days. It makes it easy to see when it is getting thin. If it has color, it's still working. If it is getting thin, it is time to paint.

In very warm salt water, you need to clean once a month WITH paint. In cold salt, every couple of months WITH paint. Repaint every year. Can't even IMAGINE what you'd get with NO paint in warm salt.

Those ad pics are just that. I bet they've never sold a Sunseeker (cruiser like the Predator you showed) to an end user with no bottom paint. I would further bet that if somebody requested it that way, that some hull warranty waiver would need to be signed.

There are a few white (offwhite, more like it) antifouling paints available. They are ALL for continuous duty (can't let them dry out without recoating). And they are self burnishing and/or hardpaints, not ablatives.

In cooler freshwaters, bottom baint becomes "more" optional. The warmer the waters, the more attractive bottom paint becomes.

m