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Batteries / Isolator Switch . . .

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Old 01-29-2004, 04:40 PM
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Default Batteries / Isolator Switch . . .

I was idling along for a couple hours when my batteries both went dead from the stereo. I shut off the stereo and got a jumpstart, and was on my way.
What is the best way to use the battery isolator switches?
I have two 'BOTH A OFF B' switches. How do the two switches affect each other, if at all? Do they both need to be in the same position at all times?
When starting the boat for the first time in the morning, what positions should the switches be in?
After starting, should the positions be switched for cruising with the stereo on?
Should the position switch be executed through the 'OFF' position, or through the 'BOTH' position?

A LITTLE EDUCATION PLEASE. . . . There must be a 'right' way.
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Old 01-29-2004, 06:03 PM
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Even though your battery switch is turned off if there is enough draw- say from the sound system it will still pull power from the battery that is turned off. The best solution is a battery isolator which will charge whatever battery that needs to be charged and will not let one side draw from the other.
 
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Old 01-29-2004, 06:36 PM
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Are you running twin charging systems? twin engines? or just two batteries?
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Old 01-29-2004, 09:59 PM
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I am running twin 502 mag mpi's, twin charging systems, twin batteries. The switches are Fountain OEM on a '98 Fever 32.
I am sure there is a 'system' involving battery switches for optimizing battery longevity / efficiency.
"mccollinstn" seem to be fairly knowledgeable where batteries are concerned. Maybe he will find this thread.

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Old 01-29-2004, 10:09 PM
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Is each battery is charged by a motor of it's own? I can't figure out how they are hooked up thru the 2 switches either. Tried all different switch combos and nothing made since. Are both used as starting batteries? and then 1 for light duty accessaries, other for the HD access, or ????????

I just leave them both in the 'both' position all the time. So far ok.
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Old 01-29-2004, 10:14 PM
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I don't think you are supposed to switch thru the OFF position while the motors are running. Chance of blowing the diodes in the Alt.
You can switch thru the BOTH selection though if they are make-before-break, which I am 99.9% sure they are.
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Old 01-29-2004, 10:30 PM
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Now from post #2, I am guessing that what I have is 'switches' as opposed to 'isolators'.
Doing an OSO search on batteries, there is a world of information about batteries, and deep-cycle, and starting, and gel, and Optimas, etc.
What I am looking for is a system. Something like:
1. Turn the switches on - start the boat.
2. Idling out of the no-wake zone, turn switches (thru BOTH) to 'A'.
3. After 15 min., turn switches (thru BOTH) to 'B'.
4. After another 15 min., turn starboard switch to OFF, and port switch to 'B', and turn on stereo.
ETC., Etc. Etc. . . . .

There MUST be a logical system to maximize battery life / charging system efficiency. . . . OR maybe I'm am really overthinking this whole thing. There are a LOT of REALLY ANAL people on this site and there WILL be an answer if I wait long enough, and keep kickin it to the top.

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Old 01-29-2004, 10:39 PM
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If you have two charging systems... and someone hasn't "cross-wired" the systems... you should be able to run one battery totally dead and still be able to start both motors on one battery. If you have switches like I think you do... you should be able to isolate the charging systems.... On my boat... the port motor, charging system, and port controls were all on the port battery.. totally separate.. The starboard charging system and battery powered the starboard controls and also provided power to the cabin and any lighting. So... If I was moored for a long time... I would turn the port battery switch to "off" ( normally #1) and leave the starboard switch on #2 ( normally #2). That way I could run the starboard battery dead and still have a fully charged #1 battery. But.... when I got into the wiring on the boat... I found that some numb-skull had inadvertently connected both systems under the dash. Easy to do if you happen to cross connect to live leads. I spent a lot of time isolating the systems so that I wouldn't have any problems. Good luck. I spent hours going through what existing wires were left in the cabin... and totally rewired the rest of the boat including new lighting and gauges. There was a horror story around where the shore power and battery power were connected along with the galvanic isolator. I hope all this typing has helped you.. good luck again. Also... if you run with the switches on "both". you have connected both charging systems and your battery meter on the gauge will not differentiate between either battery or charging system. Starting to sound complicated? It's not if you have ever wired a boat from scratch.
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Old 01-29-2004, 10:43 PM
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So.... was my last post "anal" enough? hahahahha... If you really get into trouble... I'm up in Glendale.
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Old 01-30-2004, 01:08 AM
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Nice, Reed.
Just what I was looking for. Anybody else?

OSO is a goldmine sometimes. . . .
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