Bolster tie down bolts
 

What is the recommended fix for stripped out bolster floor mount screws. The bolters are still very sturdy but I have about 3 or 4 screws that are stripped out in the floor. Before it becomes a problem I would like to fix it this year.
I know the best way to fix would be to cut an access hole and thru bolt from the bottom but I dont want to cut into the floor at this point. Is there a way I can fill the old hole and re-drill or some kind of anchor I can put in.
The bolsters are custom for the boat so moving them is not an option either. The arms come right up to the dash and wouldnt look right if moved.
Boat is a 25 Active Thunder.

Maybe a toggle bolt?

Thats along the lines I was thinking.
I havent had much luck finding anything that large of a diameter or in stainless.
Any leads would be appreciated.

Tantrum,

What Skater does is they have metal strips with threaded rod/bolts welded to them. These are then glassed in on top of the floor. When the seat is installed it covers the strip and glass work.

Try Grainger, Eastwood or Fastenal.

Try here

http://www.fastenal.com/shoponline/s...g.asp?CatID=16

A toggle might work but you have to drill a large hole to get it thru. If the base plate is large it may cover this new hole. An example, a 1/4 inch toggle requires a 1/2 hole. This would require removing the bolster also. You could epoxy the hole and redrill but that is not the best, that stuf breaks out easy. The best is to get to the back with a few fender washers stacked but if you cant than I would not drill an access hole unless you make it a 5-6 incher and put an access cover over it, this would give acess forever and could be under the seat so it is hidden. Find a small kid and stuff him in there with a bolt and wrench.:D Anything permenent will require removing the seat or drilling an access hole. I was able to get to mine thru an access panel, I was lucky.

After Waterfoul ripped my back seat out, I ended up using toggle boats. I threw 8 1/4" bolts in for the back seat. But as you guys posted, they take a friggin' huge hole.

If you can get any acces behind there, you could try using stainless T nuts. And they do make access hole cover plates that are not too ugly.

I forgot about Duct Tape of Bungy Cords. Maybe super glue? Of a big fat chick to hold them down.:D

If you were happy with the wood screws before, you can "fix" the hole by putting a length of copper wire in the hole then re-installing the screws. They will cut new threads into the wood and copper.

But if it were me, I'd put in an access plate and through bolt them ... fix it once and for good.

-Greg