Bolster tie down bolts
 

What is the recommended fix for stripped out bolster floor mount screws. The bolters are still very sturdy but I have about 3 or 4 screws that are stripped out in the floor. Before it becomes a problem I would like to fix it this year.
I know the best way to fix would be to cut an access hole and thru bolt from the bottom but I dont want to cut into the floor at this point. Is there a way I can fill the old hole and re-drill or some kind of anchor I can put in.
The bolsters are custom for the boat so moving them is not an option either. The arms come right up to the dash and wouldnt look right if moved.
Boat is a 25 Active Thunder.

Maybe a toggle bolt?

Thats along the lines I was thinking.
I havent had much luck finding anything that large of a diameter or in stainless.
Any leads would be appreciated.

Tantrum,

What Skater does is they have metal strips with threaded rod/bolts welded to them. These are then glassed in on top of the floor. When the seat is installed it covers the strip and glass work.

Try Grainger, Eastwood or Fastenal.

Try here

http://www.fastenal.com/shoponline/s...g.asp?CatID=16

A toggle might work but you have to drill a large hole to get it thru. If the base plate is large it may cover this new hole. An example, a 1/4 inch toggle requires a 1/2 hole. This would require removing the bolster also. You could epoxy the hole and redrill but that is not the best, that stuf breaks out easy. The best is to get to the back with a few fender washers stacked but if you cant than I would not drill an access hole unless you make it a 5-6 incher and put an access cover over it, this would give acess forever and could be under the seat so it is hidden. Find a small kid and stuff him in there with a bolt and wrench.:D Anything permenent will require removing the seat or drilling an access hole. I was able to get to mine thru an access panel, I was lucky.

After Waterfoul ripped my back seat out, I ended up using toggle boats. I threw 8 1/4" bolts in for the back seat. But as you guys posted, they take a friggin' huge hole.

If you can get any acces behind there, you could try using stainless T nuts. And they do make access hole cover plates that are not too ugly.

I forgot about Duct Tape of Bungy Cords. Maybe super glue? Of a big fat chick to hold them down.:D

If you were happy with the wood screws before, you can "fix" the hole by putting a length of copper wire in the hole then re-installing the screws. They will cut new threads into the wood and copper.

But if it were me, I'd put in an access plate and through bolt them ... fix it once and for good.

-Greg

YEAH! FAT chicks are cool!:D They do ANYTHING you want too!:D NOT that I know from experience or anything.:o :crazy: :eek:

Yeah, but you have to bring them along in even numbers, otherwise your boat rides like this \

Try a product called the toggler http://www.toggler.com/newproducts.html
It is available at Home depot and most marine stores. You slide it thru a 1/2' hole and it has tywrap style holders to keep it in place. I gives you a stainless steel treaded backing plate in a blind hole. We used to use these to fix the old style Cigarette bolsters.

LOL!:D :D

true story, my girlfriend is a school teacher, some of her friends(co workers) are a little, lets say hefty, well one day she was going to invite a certain one along, when she told me this, I said fine, but you have to invite this cetain other one. Why??? she asks, I tell her trust me, you wont understand, its just the laws of physics. Every time she wants to invite a friend now, she asks why cant one come with the other??? Well lets just say none of them have ever come along, I just make faces when she asks, and she gets the hint, nothin against fat people, but my boat is ugly enough, all I need is a couple of heffers hangin on the back to really set it off!!!

T-N-T
I just found that website. I think Im going to give them a try.

As for the fat chicks, its been such a long standing rule that I even removed the stickers, they all know "NO FAT CHICKS!"

I know drilling a six inch hole is scarry but if I had a boat where I could not see what was below the cockpit I would be making one day one. You never know what might be down there, snakes, mice, maybe drugs from the previous owner, maybe a cat, maybe water, maybe cash from a pirate. Inquiring minds want to know. They make nice covers that look stock and are cheap. Plus you can hide the above mentioned stuff there if needed. When the CG comes up, dump the beer down the hole. You could put returnables there also and listen to then rattle like the tag on my truck when I listen to Speakerbox.:D

I had one stripped out on the bottom side of the bolster and I used a large drywall anchor (Plastic insert) Worked for one, but not sure how it would do for all of them.

I like to use 3/8'' aluminum flat bar. Drill and tap the holes go with the access port. Other wise you will be wasting your time.

The "toggler" system looks like a winner!!

Jim

Hey Michael,

I'm going to be up your way tomorrow looking at a boat. It's at the end of Court House Point road just outside the mouth of the C&D. Hope it pans out better than the one in Florida, at least it's closer.

-Greg

Yup, if you can't get to the back you are using a bandaid. The plate is the best idea. Those toggles are used for hanging pictures and fictures in drywall, not supporting a 150lb + person putting 500lbs of preasure on the seat after coming off a wave. Then you will really have a mess when these let go. You can rent a 6" hole saw for $10 and be done in 15min each side. Buy the cover and a few stainless screws and you are done for good. I like closure, I hate wondering. Thats why I am single now.:D Depending on the space between screws, the toggle hole will really compromise the integrity of the deck and when they pull loose you will have a giant hole that is unusable again. With the plate, use nylon lock nuts. I can't believe this was not done the first time. Screws will always strip and pull out. You would never screw a wheel to a hub now would you, you bolt them. Where do you live, I am on my way with the hole saw.:D One thing, be sure you are not hitting a stringer with the holesaw.

my .02 buy a small round access cover , route out your floor to make it fit flush and whalla! though bolt with a backing plate. do it in the center of the bolster so you have access to all if the rest ever pull out.:)

Here you go, stainless and you can get them in any west marine.
Toggle bolt

http://www.garelick.com/marine/image...a_21021_lg.jpg

I agree w/ the access hole,, Mitch,, plug in the hole-saw.. :D:D...recess it, put it right in the middle like baja does, and you can reach either one

Another idea, a 10" hole and put a sub in it when you are done. Recessed is a good idea, make sure you seal the exposed glass to keep water from wicking in. One under each seat in the middle. Any water that settles in the sub will be blasted out in one note:D :D

Ohhh the insanity

The 10" sub is a good idea and a good place to keep the cat.......never thought of that.
How about coming through the bottom, shouldnt be to hard, just slide under the trailer and its right there.

Seriously though, I know the best way to do it would be the access hole. Its only 4 screws that are loose out of 16 so Im not trying to completely remount them.
My concerns with the access hole would be,
How much clearance between the fuel tank and deck. I suspect not alot considering how deep the cockpit is. If I cut the hole it could end up being for naught.
Ill have to see if I can stick a coat hanger or piece of wire and see if I cant get a better idea of how deep it is.
Thanks for the replies.......and the laughs

Have you thought about using larger screws?

Try these. They are FANTASTIC. Put them in with Resin on them and they should last a VERY long time. They are also STAINLESS so no worries about Galvanic Corrosion. I like the TNT Idea but I would be worried about them spinning if I had to ever take out the bolster. There are a few others that are cool that I will see if I can find later.

Jon