Buying a Jeep Cherokee- info needed
#11
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Re: Buying a Jeep Cherokee- info needed
JEEP= Just Empty Every Pocket... Just got rid of a 2000 & lost my *ss on it. 2 trannies, Ignition lock/system problems, 3 driver door window motors, Cooling problems, A/C compressor, the "mystery" squeaking and rattles. Interior lights that have a mind of their own. Seems that everything was fine until the warranty ran out. 2 transmissions in 65K miles is a little much, no towing or 4WD. 1- changed under warranty, 1- $1400 to fix correctly after the dealer fixed it. I'd never buy a cheep again, unless it's an old CJ.
#12
Toxic FORMULA
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Re: Buying a Jeep Cherokee- info needed
After putting 23,000 miles on my F350 in 15 months , I bought a 2000 off lease Cherokee Sport last June for my daily "beater". It came with all the toys and the balance of Factory warrantee. Averages 17/20 avg. driving and 25 highway. To date @52000 miles I've put on 10000 of those trouble free. Neat little truck
And that 4.0 will kick my PSD's a$$ light to light
And that 4.0 will kick my PSD's a$$ light to light
#13
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Re: Buying a Jeep Cherokee- info needed
Originally Posted by VelocityDriver
JEEP= Just Empty Every Pocket... Just got rid of a 2000 & lost my *ss on it. 2 trannies, Ignition lock/system problems, 3 driver door window motors, Cooling problems, A/C compressor, the "mystery" squeaking and rattles. Interior lights that have a mind of their own. Seems that everything was fine until the warranty ran out. 2 transmissions in 65K miles is a little much, no towing or 4WD. 1- changed under warranty, 1- $1400 to fix correctly after the dealer fixed it. I'd never buy a cheep again, unless it's an old CJ.
#14
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Re: Buying a Jeep Cherokee- info needed
My advice: Stick with an '00 or '01 Grand Cherokee with a 6 cylinder.
Newer models for some reason seem to exhibit more electronic gremlins.
The V8 models are fulltime AWD, which is a fuel sucker. And while the 4.7 V8 is a responsive and nicely-growly motor, the 4.0 6 is an anvil.
The 04,05 with the big motor option is not particularly recommended.
Newer models for some reason seem to exhibit more electronic gremlins.
The V8 models are fulltime AWD, which is a fuel sucker. And while the 4.7 V8 is a responsive and nicely-growly motor, the 4.0 6 is an anvil.
The 04,05 with the big motor option is not particularly recommended.
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Re: Buying a Jeep Cherokee- info needed
I had a 1994 Grand Cherokee with the 5.2 (318) V8. It held up well for about 5 years/60,000 miles, then everything started going wrong at once: Bent rear axle ($900), Fuel pump ($450), A/C ($400), engine mounts ($300). Bought a 2001 with then new 4.7, and the only problem we've had is a rear suspension squeak that we can't get rid of. The 4.7 doesn't tow as well (~5,000 lbs) as the 318 did. Even though is has more hp, it has less torque. I'd love to get one of the new ones with a Hemi.
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Re: Buying a Jeep Cherokee- info needed
My neighbor has one from the early 90's It's the straight six... I think he has 250k on the original engine. It passes smog... but it rattles like hell when he first starts it up. It needs a rebuild. But he still drives it every day and other than one transmission rebuild and a radiator, it's been pretty trouble free.
#19
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Re: Buying a Jeep Cherokee- info needed
First off, thanks for all of the information.
For a little clarification, this will be the “old style” boxy Cherokee.
Have heard this. I will be adding an aux. trans fluid cooler if it does not come on the vehicle.
Will be towing up to 4,000 lbs of 17-21’ center consoles around New Orleans mostly short distances, but a few longer trips around Louisiana when I’m down here at school. Very flat terrain, but understand the inherant problems with a short wheelbase vehicle. A brake upgrade is also not out of the question.
BF-
I like to 4.0 engine a lot. Seems like a good mix or power and TORQUE and fuel economy. And is good for 250k.
I have found an 01 with the 4.0, 46k mi., sport, part time 4WD, but no tow package. Extremely good condition for 10.5k. More than I’d like to spend, but it may be worth it. On par with similar vehicles in this area.
So I’m thinking that to tow I would take it to a very reputable Jeep dealer and have them add what I need. Hitch, cooler, stiffened rear end, upgraded shocks, etc.
As for off-road, first would be skid plates and a better set of tires. Maybe a little bigger, but I will not be lifting it in the near future. I’ve heard these things are very capable without much being done to them. Won’t be doing anything hardcore, but would like a vehicle I’m not worried about getting stuck in and can have a little fun in on the weekends.
As long as the problems are nothing major, I can live with it. And won’t drain my wallet when it has to be fixed.
Velocity and C-spray- Sorry to hear about your problems. I will have it professionally looked at before I buy.
This is what I like to hear. Fuel mileage and quick. I’ve heard its not that difficult to spin the tires.
I plan to have this a long time, so I can only hope it holds up as this one has.
Packin-
I have driven both the 4.0 and 4.7, and prefer (by far) the 4.0.
Keep the replies coming. I appreciate 'em.
Brad.
For a little clarification, this will be the “old style” boxy Cherokee.
Originally Posted by cig1988
It will run forever. Weakest link is the transmission. If you keep the trans serviced, it will last a long time.
Originally Posted by Dave M
The straight 6 is a good engine. I had a '91, sold it a few years ago. How much do you plan on towing with it? I towed a '21 cuddy, around 5K loaded, mostly short distances. The engine has enough power but the short wheel base and light vehicle do not make for great towing. Everyday I got around 20 MPH. It was great in the snow, never off roaded with it.
Dave M.
Dave M.
BF-
I like to 4.0 engine a lot. Seems like a good mix or power and TORQUE and fuel economy. And is good for 250k.
I have found an 01 with the 4.0, 46k mi., sport, part time 4WD, but no tow package. Extremely good condition for 10.5k. More than I’d like to spend, but it may be worth it. On par with similar vehicles in this area.
So I’m thinking that to tow I would take it to a very reputable Jeep dealer and have them add what I need. Hitch, cooler, stiffened rear end, upgraded shocks, etc.
As for off-road, first would be skid plates and a better set of tires. Maybe a little bigger, but I will not be lifting it in the near future. I’ve heard these things are very capable without much being done to them. Won’t be doing anything hardcore, but would like a vehicle I’m not worried about getting stuck in and can have a little fun in on the weekends.
Originally Posted by BGIII
99-01 are a much improved vehicle versus the 97-98. The only things I can think of that are a continual problem is the front door speakers wiring breaks inside the rubber tube in the jamb and needs to be repaired and they have an appitite for power window motors. They are a little on the crude side, but they run forever and are cheap to purchase and repair.
Velocity and C-spray- Sorry to hear about your problems. I will have it professionally looked at before I buy.
Originally Posted by mopower
After putting 23,000 miles on my F350 in 15 months , I bought a 2000 off lease Cherokee Sport last June for my daily "beater". It came with all the toys and the balance of Factory warrantee. Averages 17/20 avg. driving and 25 highway. To date @52000 miles I've put on 10000 of those trouble free. Neat little truck
And that 4.0 will kick my PSD's a$$ light to light
And that 4.0 will kick my PSD's a$$ light to light
Originally Posted by Reed Jensen
My neighbor has one from the early 90's It's the straight six... I think he has 250k on the original engine. It passes smog... but it rattles like hell when he first starts it up. It needs a rebuild. But he still drives it every day and other than one transmission rebuild and a radiator, it's been pretty trouble free.
Packin-
I have driven both the 4.0 and 4.7, and prefer (by far) the 4.0.
Keep the replies coming. I appreciate 'em.
Brad.
#20
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Re: Buying a Jeep Cherokee- info needed
Originally Posted by BradH
First off, thanks for all of the information.
For a little clarification, this will be the “old style” boxy Cherokee.
.
For a little clarification, this will be the “old style” boxy Cherokee.
.
Then you are talking XJ. They only came with 4.0's. They are great cars and I've had a couple.
Don't be in a hurry to get one. There are a zillion of them for sale so take your time and find the right one. You say you want to keep it for a while so find one with the lowest mileage possible. You may have to pay more $ but it will be worth it. Find a limited with tow package, preferably with 3.73 gears. If you get one with out tow package, don't bring it to a dealer. You can have a receiver hitch installed by U-Haul ro Eckert or those kind of places. Or do it yourself, it's not hard. Have a tranny shop install a trans cooler. You don't need any rear end work other than gears depending on what it comes with. Like I said 3.73s should be fine until you go to larger tires. The larger the tire the more "gear" you loose. If you are towing you will want the gears. Remember, if you change gears you need 2 sets, front & rear. They should run you about $150 set plus install. Don't buy new shocks until you decide if you want lift or not. XJ's are coil front, leaf rear and very easy and cheap to lift. There are many companies that make 3" lifts so you can run 31"s. I wouldn't recommend more than that. Check out Rancho, Rubicon Express or maybe Teraflex.
If you are towing 4000 lbs you definately want trailer brakes! Hope there aren't any big hills around too. Keep your speed down and you should be okay. Unless you really get into off roading I would stay stock height for towing. XJs are very capable in stock form. You may be able to fit 29/30X950's with the right wheel backspace. Also limited slip or locking diffs will make a big difference.
Good luck!
Last edited by Baja Fresh; 12-05-2004 at 01:09 PM.