I know this was discussed quite a while ago but I'm going to ask again.

What's the best way to deal with "Floating Trailer Syndrome"?

I'm going to drill holes in the fenders so air can escape but I'm not sure that's going to be enough. I had a REAL problem with it last Sunday. Not only was it floating, but because of the current it was floating under the docks alongside the ramp which was a MAJOR PITA. If it wasn't for the two guys who helped me I'd never got it back on the trailer without tying it in place which would have really jammed up the ramps. Only two launch ramps, side by side, at Nokomis Ramp. Probably be the last time I try that one, gonna start going up to 10th st. in Sarasota. Those are just fabulous ramps. LONG docks beside the ramps where you can tie up while you park the tow rig and people can still launch. However the trailer will still float.

Any suggestions on what type of weights to use and a guess as to how much.

When I redid the trailer I went from multiple leaf springs to the single piece spring, and the new tires run a little higher air pressure. Never had the problem before but now it would float to England.

Maybe I should somehow affix my old Merc exhaust manifolds to the trailer. That oughta do it. Those things weigh a ton.

Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks. Russ

Hook weights to the back of the trailer only when your at the ramp.

If in salt water two concrete blocks hould do it.

PITA to carry but it's only one more little thing when you go boating.

I would say go to Sportmart and buy some of those black coated weights and rig them up near the back of the trailer. My next suggestion would be chunks of lead but I'm not sure how that would react in salt water.

How about some electric stern thrusters mounted under the trailer that should do it. It took nearly 70lbs to sink my trailer.

One piece of big pipe, like 6 inch 3/8 thick stainless across the back of the trailer will do it. Plus it will make a nice bumper.

How about 4 or 6 inch P.V.C pipe run th lenth of the trailer.Cap both ends,fill w\ water- then drain when u dont need the weight???

I had the same problem...
I foud some lead sheets from a big sailboat keel, and hammered them into pieces that fit inside the rail of the trailer, behind the axles. Two bolts on each side and I was done. You'll hardly see the weights in there. I put 50lb on each side.
The lead won't rot like Walmart weights will...

I have seen other guys yse PVC pipe filled with Sand...
You could bolt it across the rear crossmember, or try to fit it inside the I beam...

I hate to point out the obvious, but how will filling pvc pipes with WATER add any negative buoyancy? You hafta fill em with something that SINKS or you haven't accomplished anything. Like concrete or scrap metal slugs...

Making sure the trailer isn't trapping air is a biggie. The fenders, for sure. And any structural member that can trap water should be given some sizeable holes on the bottom and a few on the top to allow air to come out and water to go in. My trailer is all channel members or I-beam members which do not trap air. My trailer doesn't float.

As far as tires holding higher air pressure, that doesn't make it want to float. Higher pressure air weighs more than lower pressure air. If yourt trailer is floating with different tires, then the tires simply have more internal volume than the old ones did - maybe not a lot, but just enough to float it.

best of luck

PVC tubes filled with sand or better yet, concrete. If you have an aluminum I beam, you can easily mount them on the inner side of the ibeam so they are out of eye view. If you have bunks, you can run them along the bunks.

Trial and error: Try attaching regular weights to determine how much weight you need first, then if you go with a filled tube, you'll know the minimum amount you'll need to attach.



Good Luck!

Letting the air out of the tires will sink it....permanently!